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pope

IT'S A SANBAG, SON.

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How about Geronimo. Also near the Hidden Valley Campground at JTree. Definitely the largest semi off-width roof crack I have had to surmount on a 5.7. The emotional scarring wouldn't have been nearly as bad if the campground audience had not witnessed the entire embarrassing sequence of events.

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quote:

Originally posted by jblakley:

Ditto on that one! I would say that if you have flawless flaring, overhanging offwidth technique this would be a 5.8! This climb sticks out as one of the most awkward I have ever tried.


Poor technique homey! The problem with the offwidths is that everyone avoids them at the crags most of the time. Then when they do them they got no technique which goes a long way. Also which way you face when climbing is critical.. I say if you are bad at offwidths go do some laps on Damnation Crack and something like Battered Sandwich for starters. I have semi poor technique on them but this year I have been working on them. I often find that even though an armbar or something feels in secure I later toprope and test it finding that it is rather secure to move up on. Plus when climbing OW you usually get bomber cams that are better than anything you can ask for.

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Since we keep bringing up JTree 5.7s how about Double Cross. Sustained vertical hand to fist crack that had me exhausted at the top. Its locally known as "pumkin head" cause the first pro is nearly 20 feet up with a bad landing and many 5.7 climbers have pitched trying to get the first piece in.

Recently I saw a new topo for Royal Arches made by Chris MacNamara that rates the step across move as 10b. I'm not sure about the ethics of changing a rating for a free move, but it definately is more accurate. I, too, opted to grab the fixed rope.

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