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Posted

If you're gonna spend on the I-Tent, check out the new MH Direkt 2. Awesome for that size and pretty darn bomber. (And 2 lb 8 oz). I'm a fan. Note, most of these tents don't have vestibules... but good stuff.

 

Also, consider the La Sportiva Baruntse's if you want a beefier boot with a heat moldable liner. I've been really happy in mine and have used it anywhere from a sunny Rainier summer climb to a very cold bivy on the muir snowfield.

 

And, definitely get the Prodeal. Why'd you become a guide anyway? DUDE, PRODEALS! LOL.

 

Oh, and clients who just give tips to guides who have poor gear are stupid idiots. Guides do a ton of work and deserve whatever tip you got. End of story. Screw respect - the dude put your tent up and cooked your dinner (not to mention belayed your fat ass up that last slope). He deserves a fricken tip despite the look of his gear. Um kay?

 

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Posted

Guides should be climbing role-models for their clients, who will take cues from them, and guides should be outfitted with good gear.

 

In the Tetons, the Exum guides were outfitted by Nike at the time. Many of the the clients ran out and bought the same clothes and gear as the guides. The trend seems to be the same on Rainier. A lot of the RMI clients wear whatever the guides are wearing.

 

My understanding is that some of the guide services not only received free clothes/gear for the guides, the companies paid the guide services for the priviledge of outfitting their guides as it was such strong advertising. The clients saw their guides wearing such and such so obviously it was the best choice and they had to have it.

Posted

Very good point DPS. I've seen that same trend on guided climbs on Rainier. I've noticed less of that on international expeditions - but I guess that's because the clients are usually more "dialed" by the time they get out of the country.

Posted
Very good point DPS. I've seen that same trend on guided climbs on Rainier. I've noticed less of that on international expeditions - but I guess that's because the clients are usually more "dialed" by the time they get out of the country.

 

More "dialed", or less of a lemming?

Posted

Does anyone have any experience with the MH Direkt2 in some gnarly conditions?

 

Right now I'm really between getting the I-tent or the Direkt2.

 

Pros for the I-tent:

Bibler material is bomber

I can add a vestibule if necessary

 

Pros for the Direkt 2:

It's light as hell

It's bomber (seems to be what I hear)

....it's light

 

Any experience with either tent would be greatly appreciated. In any situation I'm not planning on sharing the tent.. It's going to be just me and my gear.

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