Paradise Shuttle in July

[Montana_Climber]

I'm coming up to climb Liberty Ridge in early July and plan to start at White River then climb over Liberty Cap and come down to Paradise. Are there any commercial shuttle services available or is anyone going to be willing to offer a ride for cash and beer around July 8th?

 

Thanks,

Bill

[DPS]

Just a thought, most folks approach from White River and descend Emmons back to White River, negating the need for a car shuttle. This is how I did it and it was pretty reasonable. One day drom White River TH to Thumb Rock, one short day to summit and descend to the TH. I don't see any advantages to descending to Paradise. Emmons is more straight forward with fewer objective hazards than the DC route.

Edited May 9, 2012 by DPS

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Just a thought, most folks approach from White River and descend Emmons back to White River, negating the need for a car shuttle. This is how I did it and it was pretty reasonable. One day drom White River TH to Thumb Rock, one short day to summit and descend to the TH. I don't see any advantages to descending to Paradise. Emmons is more straight forward with fewer objective hazards than the DC route.

 

Less people to deal with on the Emmons as well...

[DPS]

To answer you question, there are no shuttles that I am aware of that run from Paradise to Ipsut Creek or White River trailheads, the two choices for Liberty Ridge. If for whatever reason, you have your heart set on descending to Paradise, bring $100 cash and start asking folks in the parking lot (there will be alot if you get down in the middle of the day

) for a ride halfway around the mountain and bribe them $100 bucks to do so. Some broke climbers might take pity (and your money) to drive you, but this is hit and miss. I am guessing driving east on Hwy 12 and then back west on Hwy 410.

Edited May 9, 2012 by DPS

[dougd]

Just a thought, most folks approach from White River and descend Emmons back to White River, negating the need for a car shuttle. This is how I did it and it was pretty reasonable. One day drom White River TH to Thumb Rock, one short day to summit and descend to the TH. I don't see any advantages to descending to Paradise. Emmons is more straight forward with fewer objective hazards than the DC route.

 

This is the best advice for you MC. There will most likely be a huge cattle trail down the Emmons for you to follow on your descent...

 

If you remain bent on descending to Paradise, and fighting through all the bullshit on the DC or some such, AND there's enough cash and beer in play, pm me, I never need much of an excuse to visit MRNP...

 

d

[Montana_Climber]

So DC is out. I have no heartset desire to descend to Paradise. Emmons it is. I still have some research to do.

 

The last time I was on Rainier was in 1994. I climbed the DC route from Paradise in 18 hours in shorts (used Everest OneSport boots with built-in gaiters so it's not as bad as it sounds). The summit was perfectly still under a full moon. The road had just opened and it was a heavy snowfall year. There was nearly 10 days of perfect weather in early June and the cattle trail was well established to the summit. There were record numbers of people summitting during that window.

 

Thanks for the advice,

Bill

[DPS]

Good choice. Park at the White River TH, hike to Glacier Basin (same approach for Emmons), head up St Elmo's Pass, cross under Curtis Ridge, drop down onto the Carbon, cross the Carbon, up Lib Ridge (bivis at St Elmo's Pass and Thumb Rock on Lib Ridge). Summit and descend down Emmons, the Inter glacier, glissgade down to Glacier Basin and hike out to the car. The hump from the TH to Thumb Rock is long, it took me 12 hours, and many parties break the approach up into two days, spending the first night at St Elmos Pass or thereabouts, the second night at Thumb Rock.

[Montana_Climber]

DPS, we plan to spend the first night at the Pass and the second night at Thumb Rock. The third day we'll go up and over and back down the Emmons. We have 2 days built in for weather, etc but knowing the region that may still not be enough.

[DPS]

We have 2 days built in for weather, etc but knowing the region that may still not be enough.

 

That dependends upon the snow conditions, weather, personal fitness, how much weight you carry and so forth. If weather is not too bad, (July is usually quite stable) 5 days should be plenty. We did it in 30 hours CTC in mid July.

[Montana_Climber]

My partner and I are fairly fit. I acclimate very well (sea level to 23,000' and back to sea level in 7 days) but I don't know how well my partner will do. He's climbed other 14'ers without any problems but he hasn't done anything of this scale.

 

I am fairly confident I can keep my pack in the 30-35 lb range with 4 days of food and 5 days of fuel.

[DPS]

In July your biggest obstacles will be crossing the Carbon glacier and rock fall from the spine of the ridge below Thumb Rock. St Elmo's Pass is a fairly short hike (3-4 hours at most). You may want to hike in a bit further so you can cross the carbon and ascend to Thumb Rock before the heat of the day creates too much rock fall. Of course weather is always a concern, that time of year it will come from the north so you can keep a good eye on it. Watch the summit, a growing descending lenticular cloud is bad.

[Montana_Climber]

We will play it by ear. We fly in at midnight on Friday and will pick up our permits when the Rangers open. We were told we can get there around 0730 on Friday morning. We also need to pick up fuel canisters since we are flying in. Given these delays, I don't expect to be on the trail until at least 1000. If it took you 12 hours to get to Thumb Rock then that concerns me a bit for the first day out after traveling. We could always get up there, start a bit later on Saturday for the summit, and plan to bivy on the upper Emmons then come down on Sunday to the trailhead.

 

My biggest concern is going to be route finding across the Carbon. It sounds like the temps are already starting to climb on the mountain and the snow is starting to melt out. I just checked a report that stated the temps at Paradise yesterday reached into the mid-50's.

[Montana_Climber]

It was a successful climb. The TR is posted now.