Tieton River Gorge

[kevbone]

Heading out for six days starting tomorrow. Never been there before. One cigar for each night!

[kevbone]

Does anybody have any good information on finding routes at the base of Goose Egg Mtn? I have read it can be tricky finding the start of certain routes.

 

Thanks!

[Quarryographer]

Which routes? Walking further across the talus n scree than I wanted to seemed to work for me. Better advice would be to get back in your car and drive down to the Bend or the Columns or Moon Rocks or, just about anywhere in the canyon... But if you do need to get on that horrichoss Commando pillar at least offers interesting climbing, provided the holds are still there. And the option of rappel retreat should you come to your senses. Enjoy!

[kevino]

Kev...the dihedral from ride the lightening is super obvious, so I always use that as a point of reference. If I remember correctly, the trail from the spring puts you near the base of dirty sanchez and ride the lightening.

 

You sport or trad climbing or both? Moon rocks and royal columns have fun trad, haven't spent any time at wildcat wall but have been told good things. For sport for dream wall has some quality routes - don't think the newest ones are in the book but they are all right around the .10 range. If its melted out, check out the South Fork!

 

Make sure to take pictures!

[kevbone]

We are looking for adventure climbing. So I have heard so much about Goose Egg....have to see it for myself before I judge. The words "loose, scary and run-out" are in all the route discriptions for all the routes.....hahahahaha

 

I plan on sport and crack climbing.

 

 

[stevetimetravlr]

I think you will find much of Tieton is "adventure" climbing. have fun!

[kevino]

As Steve said, you will find adventure at Tieton!

 

Depending on what level your climbing at, those routes that Joe P put up on goose egg look pretty sweet too!

 

This time of year watch out for ticks and rattlesnakes.

[kevino]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=969673

 

the aforementioned hard work of Joe

[David Yount]

The main access trail takes you just 25-feet left of Ride the Lighting. But I'd recommend you begin with Dirty Sanchez, which is maybe about 200-feet left of Ride the Lightning.

 

With the current guidebook, 2004, locating routes doesn't take long.

 

But there are descriptions in the book that I would describe differently.

 

Like.... P2 of Dirty Sanchez is a Left Facing Corner, not an RFC. The 1st bolt on P2 has no hanger presently. P3 begins as a PG for over 20 feet of significant climbing there may be no pro and P7 is not PG if you have the appropriate pro on your rack. P4 anchor bolts are located to the right _before_ the LFC ends and they are just above an obvious horizontal horn at a cramped belay stance.

 

And for P7 I'd tersely describe it as - go up, now delicately walk across the decomposing ridgeline, when you reach the face gently climb the jumbled crack system, [there is no bush anymore!] nearing the top pulling rightward and then find the single anchor bolt

 

If you enjoy mondo pitches then combine P3 and P4 and then also combine P5 and P6.

 

Ticks are uncommon, but it's best to casually check yourself throughout the day and then a full body search before getting into the car. They like dark hairy areas.

 

Will be interested to read your experiences.

 

[kevbone]

Just got back. Had a great time....we found IMO one of the best camping sites I have been in in a long time. We attempted Ride the Lightening. Made it to the top of pitch 5 then decided to bail. It was sunny but very windy. We got cold....very cool climbing. That second pitch on R the L was incredible....steep!