Shameless Gear Beta Request - Sagittarius

[Rafael_H]

Hi everybody.

 

What gear does the first pitch of Sagittarius at Index take after the piton?

 

I top-roped it just once a while ago and recall it not easing up after pulling the roof. If I am wrong, then forget it. If it is indeed sustained at .11 then a fall can be... what, up to 30+ft? and perhaps slamming the wall if the last piece is under the roof.

 

Thanks!

[DPS]

Ball-nut?

[Sol]

I assume your talking full sagg? Back the pin up with some yellow/red alien size in a crack under the roof, it does occasionally come out. Climb through the roof (crux) and you can get a BD .75 (an orange alien fits better) in to protect the mantle to the anchor stance. It' on the right and is pretty dang bomber.

[Rafael_H]

Aha, great, thanks Sol!!!

 

Hey, see you out there sometime!

[keenwesh]

I've been climbing at index forever and somehow have yet to try sagittarius, it's on the list for this year! I'll keep that beta in mind if I go for the full sag, thanks sol.