New to the Cascades!

[Normanras]

Hey everyone,

 

Really happy I found this website. So this coming late May/early June I'll be hanging out in the Eugene area looking to explore some awesome wilderness areas. I want to go high up and get some awesome views! I'm interested in climbing, basic mountaineering, and/or backpacking.

 

Quick history: Coming from the east coast, I climb at the Gunks, leading 5.5 following 5.9, gunks ratings. I have a gunks rack (single set of cams up to 3 and nuts/micronuts and alpine draws). Backpacking trips are common for me, too.

 

I'd love to do some mountaineering but afraid I haven't had a lot of experience out here with it. I wanted to ask the community what recommendations they have about where I should go. I'd be alone (my friend out in Eugene doesn't climb) so I'd love to join a party if at all possible.

 

My two thoughts have been doing a solo ascent of one of the sisters (probably middle or south) or heading over the smith rock and hoping to find a partner.

 

Suggestions? Help a east coaster have a great first experience in the Cascades!

[mhux]

South Sister's south ridge is probably a good bet if you don't have much experience, its pretty cruiser though I'd recommend skis for the ride down

The other Sisters aren't too hard either, probably something for everyone out there imo...

I have friends who have hung around at Smith, either at the bivy site or just walking around the crag and have found partners pretty easily, just offer a belay and maybe beer and you'll be set

[alpine et]

I'll second South Sister's South ridge. Easy beautiful climb. Here's a trip report from this past summer if you're curious.

 

Smith ratings and Gunk ratings might be somewhat similar. I'm more familiar with exit 38/exit 32 etc being from Seattle, and those ratings are at least 1 - 2 grades easier than gunks, IMHO. So you're 5.9 is easily a 5.10 up this way, FYI.

[Normanras]

Thanks everyone! Awesome information. Currently setting my sights on smith rock to begin with and I'll hopefully make a pit stop at the sisters on my way back. Looking forward to seeing you guys on the rocks! (I'll be posting in partners with dates if anyone needs a climbing partner in early June...)

[ColinB]

Its not technical, but backpacking into the diamond peak wilderness and scrambling up it makes for a good weekend close to Eugene. Maybe take an ice axe, and definitely take a camera. One of the little gems of Oregon for sure.

[big rog]

Hi I am new to this site as well as new to bloging. I am also fairly new to hiking/ climbing as in my first climb was last year to Mt hood summit. I was hoping to find insite on climbing different mountians in the northwest due to i am hooked on the adventure and sense of accomplishment of mt climbing. i was hoping to not only climb hood again this year but also Mt St helens. Of the info i have read they have all said it is a good climb for beginers. also have read that the climb could be done in a day. My question is approx how long round trip does the st helens climb take and is it like hood where the climb starts at midnight. your input will be much apprechiated thanks in advance

[JoshK]

Assuming you have a car (or access to one), try to make it up to the North Cascades of Washington while you are out here. It's a long drive from OR, but they are definitely the alpine jewel of the lower-48 and you won't be sorry.