Arcteryx Fission SV Reviews

[smithxrandy]

I have yet to come across a contextually viable review of the Fission SV. I am wondering if the lack of pitzips limits breathability much, and exactly how the "expedition fit" works for technical climbing.

 

Essentially I'l looking for a cold weather jacket to potentially belay in, use after dark, or even ice climb on cold days. Thinking something un insulated with pitzips paired with a good insulating layer might be smarter?

 

Any word would be nice

[Dane]

Old but a review

 

http://www.epinions.com/review/Arc_teryx_Fission_SV_Jacket/content_314819251844

[RafalA]

I've got one, a couple years old but it hasn't changed since afaik; fire away with any questions you may have.

 

General observations:

 

- the fit is relatively tight, i.e. it goes over layers but isn't as roomy as, say, the Kappa Hoody or Dually Parka. It's much more of a performance fit so would be much better for actual climbing in than either of those two. (5'11" 160lbs)

 

- great belay jacket, though overkill with Pro Shell, I'd rather take something lighter that's just a nylon shell

 

- totally windproof: every time I put this on I feel like I've just stepped into a tank (I mean it - this jacket feels absolutely bombproof!)

 

- in the temperatures I use it (-25C and below), I don't have issues with lack of breathability as long as I'm layered properly. It's easy to overheat in if you use it in warm(ish) temps. (I've overheated in it walking the dog at -30C while wearing just a T-shirt underneath.)

 

- dual-zipper, hem clip and long length mean this thing keeps your ass warm and your belay device visible

 

- dual napoleon-style chest pockets are nice for storing random stuff, hand pockets are useless and inside mesh pockets are great for drying gloves, etc.

 

For your use, I'd go with a layered approach (Atom LT, SV, etc.) - check out the parka purchase thread. Again, if you have specific questions, let me know, might be easier to get the info you want that way!

[smithxrandy]

Thanks for the input. Sounds like what I'd feared. I just found one for half price.

 

Looks like im going to go with the Alpha SV, Atom LT hoody combo. Thank dog for employee discounts!!

And for your advice.

 

//End Thread. See Parka advice thread.

 

[Dane]

"im going to go with the Alpha SV, Atom LT hoody combo"

 

Smart. The guys I know that climb and have the chance, do the same. And all of us so far seem to really like that combo.