B Deleted_Beck Posted January 4, 2012 Posted January 4, 2012 Howdy Thinking about going up for this expected clear weather. Thinking about Thursday night, climb Friday morning, or possibly Friday night, climb Saturday morning. I'd prefer to climb on Friday, myself- especially if we do a south-side approach. Also still wanting to do DKH at some point... I'm still fighting off a long lasting cold and feeling a little weak, so I don't know if I'll be up for it this week, but might be. Facebook is probably fastest, Benjamin Beckerich, followed by email bkb0000 at comcast.net, followed by PM here -Ben Quote
B Deleted_Beck Posted January 5, 2012 Author Posted January 5, 2012 Looks like the clearer looking weather for Friday has shifted to Saturday... still looking to go up, still need a partner. Quote
B Deleted_Beck Posted January 7, 2012 Author Posted January 7, 2012 re-emailed you! --- Still haven't locked in a partner 100%. Would love to try out DKH tonight, also... like, would really like to try it. So if you have contempt for the South Side, tromp up with me anyway, and we'll do one of the forgotten classic ice lines on the mountain. I'm headed out here in about an hour... will bring a full alpine rack and rope, as well as an extra set of tools. If anybody wants to come, and do either Pearly Gates or DKH, give me a call. If I don't hear from anybody by go time, I'll leave my gear in the truck. 503-4one0-4zero90 -Ben Quote
JWebster Posted January 7, 2012 Posted January 7, 2012 I'm looking to take a buddy up in a few weeks after he gets his cardio up a bit. How are the conditions past the hogs back this time of year? Are tools necessary, because we only have standard ice axes ( self arrest). I have several pickets and was going to grab a couple of screws just in case. I went up pearly gates last year for my first major summit and had to solo because my buddy bonked out early, step kicking in firm snow, fairly steep, but I felt good. Everyone else was using the old Shute above the crater. Quote
B Deleted_Beck Posted January 9, 2012 Author Posted January 9, 2012 I'm looking to take a buddy up in a few weeks after he gets his cardio up a bit. How are the conditions past the hogs back this time of year? Are tools necessary, because we only have standard ice axes ( self arrest). I have several pickets and was going to grab a couple of screws just in case. I went up pearly gates last year for my first major summit and had to solo because my buddy bonked out early, step kicking in firm snow, fairly steep, but I felt good. Everyone else was using the old Shute above the crater. It's starting to fill in, and wasn't as high or steep as it was a few weeks ago. Was all decently consolidated powder from the Bergschrund to the ice step, then 65 degrees ice for about 13'ish feet. I would not recommend ice axes, if the ice step is still exposed when you guys go up- it's only 13' of the whole route, but really calls for technical picks. Somebody experienced could do it with an axe and a tool, but I don't think too many guys would want to do that solo. Quote
JWebster Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 Thanks for the reply, sorry to pick your brain on your post looking for partners and if it isn't appreciated let me know. I was looking through Mt.Gear's catalog at hybrid tools that were not crazy techincal, would a pair of BD venom do the job, or should I get the Sum-tec from Petzl. Not really looking to spend 250 plus per tool and either of these choices I can get into for around 300-350 for the pair. Any thoughts? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 I'm keen on Friday if anyone is interested especially if you can carpool from Portland Quote
astrov Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Pearly Gates or Coop Spur? I did Pearly last weekend with Ben. Edited January 12, 2012 by astrov Quote
B Deleted_Beck Posted January 12, 2012 Author Posted January 12, 2012 You guys should check the weather- looking pretty intense, this weekend. JW - really any technical tool will do just fine to get up that step. It's not hard, as straight up ice climbing goes, and a guy should really be physically capable of getting up with pretty much anything. But to really stick well, enjoy yourself, and help limit your odds of injury or death, technical tools are highly recommended. Anything with a compact shaft and a concave- rather than convex- pick. Quote
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