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What I find myself doing is using up what I need prior to the anchor. I end up using the tricams and hexes where I think "damn I wish I had a number .75 here". or using all the cams and then forced to build an anchor with passive pro that may not be as easy to place. I am always looking for nut placements. It probably boils down to confidence and experince and I realize that once I have the experience, my confidence will increase. I do know that I love the sport, wish I had more time for it, and will be climing for at least another 20-25 years. into my 60's hopefully.I admit I am somewhat of a gear whore. New fangled shiny stuff always catches my eye. Ido want to get a guide. I do want to climb the monkey face (pioneer route) to do that I will need some aiders and ascenders. Prusiking up a fixed rope sounds fine, but my wife will be doing it and she wont like it. any advice on ascenders vs prusik knots?

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Posted

Passive pro is great for anchors. That way you can save the cams for the leader. You'll get more adept and quicker at placing passive pro over time.

 

I'd definitly recommend getting ascenders instead of using prussiks!

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