Peakpimp Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir Date: 11/7/2011 Trip Report: On Jens' tip that the Stuart range was looking promising my girlfriend and I decided to spent the weekend poking around while camping at Colchuck Lake for a few nights. Apparently we weren't the only ones spurred on by the stoke as the lake was packed with teams everywhere, checking out the conditions and generally chomping at the bit to get some climbing done. Friends at the beach camp on Colchuck Lake. It was cold, around 15 at night, and not above 25 during the day. There was a light dusting of snow on everything but not more than 1.5in of sugary powder. Our objective was the N.E. Couloir on D-tail and we hiked up Aasgard to check it out. There is continuous snow nearly all the way down with the exception of a big hole at the bottom which I believe could be negotiated with some creativity. We decided to bail on the route though for fear of finding the same sugar snow up high as we encountered down low. Here's a shot of the N.E. Couloir on D-Tail, apologies for the overexposure. We did climb the Colchuck Glacier on Sunday with a couple of friends we ran into at the Lake and got a good look at the gullies on Colchuck which both looked improbable. The N.E. Butt couloir had a HUGE hole at the bottom and 2 gapers up high and the snow in the N.B.C. only covered the upper half of the route. Shot of the gullies on Colchuck. Another team we encountered decided to go for the NBC that day and found stellar conditions of water ice, alpine ice and fun mixed, certainly more interesting than a moderate snow climb! We had been debating what to do with our last day out and after excitedly begging them for an update and eagerly hearing their report we decided to head up the N.B.C. the next day. On Monday we climbed the N.B.C. and found it to be in great shape! Approaching the couloir The route went up the central gully and climbs the face to the left of the chockstone at around 5.7 Approaching the base of the gully after crossing an ice ramp. Leaving the belay Climbing up to the chockstone Some sweet WI2 ramps led above the chockstone to the snow in the upper couloir which varied from knee deep powder to perfect neve to water ice in the narrow sections. Looking down. Climbing snow in the upper couloir Out on the face after topping out the NBC A storm over Stuart that ended up catching us just as we topped out. Looking back at the notch and the lake. Climbing high on the face. Steep snow near the top. Gear Notes: A handful of pitons, 3 stubby screws and a small rack from tips to #1 Camalot was just perfect. Approach Notes: The Road is open and trail is dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Cool TR. I have been wondering what this climb is like at the moment. Thanks for the beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Super cool guys! Glad folks are making it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain panther Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 nice work josh and cat! im bummed i missed out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcutter Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 3 of us climbed this route on Sunday 13th. Definitely more mixed than expected lower down. Snow in the upper gully is now infinitely deep and chest high & almost impossible to move through. We bailed about 200' from the notch due to the snow depth & lightness. Also a 6-8" windslab forming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezra Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Nice Job, awesome pics, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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