[TR] Mesahchie - Mesahchie Ice Fall Couloir 9/4/2011

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Mesahchie - Mesahchie Ice Fall Couloir

 

Date: 9/4/2011

 

Trip Report:

 

This climb caught my interest last year when I read Gaucho Argentino's TR. I figured the route might be in by now, and with the weather looking great, gave it a go with a few friends (TB, NM, and MS).

 

We drove up to Easy Pass TH early Saturday and made short work of the trail despite our too-heavy packs, loaded with ice climbing gear.

 

View from Easy Pass:

 

Rest here was not possible due to the still-thriving insect swarms - a trifecta of small black flies, big biting flies, and skeeters. So, we consulted route descriptions and choose a path uphill for the notorious traverse.

 

Usually when someone bitches about a traverse or down-climb, I take it with a grain of salt. In this case, however, I must fully concur with the description of high suck-factor on this traverse. It sucked going in, and it sucked coming out. 'Nuff said (for now).

 

Traversing:

 

Getting closer:

 

We arrived at camp 2+ hours out of Easy Pass, and were pleasantly surprised to find a nice stream of flowing water right by the best bivy spots at 7,000 feet. We settled in, enjoyed our respective Mountain House, and enjoyed a beautiful sunset with views of the great North Cascades.

 

Logan under a moon:

 

We were up at 5 and head towards the col at 7500. We found one spot where we could reasonably gain the glacier, roped up, and headed down.

 

Access to the glacier:

 

Starting down:

 

A nice traverse led to widening views of our route. At first it appeared quite steep, but foreshortening finally lost its battle and we saw a very mellow route ahead.

 

Looking steep:

 

Looking mellow:

 

MS led first with TB. I then led out with NM. The 45 degree pitch was about a rope length, and I placed 2 pickets and 2 screws. There was some exposed ice, but mostly hard-packed snow, great for cramponing. After the rope was stretched out the terrain mellowed, so I just kept going. I led up to the couloir and surmounted a short, steep slope to attain our 2nd belay spot in a great little alcove on the far right. Here I caught up to MS.

 

Rest spot on 1st pitch:

 

Looking back to NM:

 

MS at belay 2:

 

I swapped gear and NM headed up. In about 140 feet he placed 3 pickets and set up a belay in an alcove below some rocks using a gear anchor built with nuts. I then led up to the top of the couloir (100+ feet), placing 3 pickets and brought in NM. All in all, the ice route was great fun but too short!

 

I thought it might be nice to try for the summit (hey, maybe I'd try for the Bulger list some day), so we dropped gear and started off after a short rest. I now take full responsibility for all that ensued. :-)

 

As per the route description on Summit Post we descended a gully and crossed over into a 2nd, beige-colored gully. It was immediately apparent that Mesachchie's reputation for loose, shitty rock was deserved. About 150 feet up this gully, MS knocked a rock loose that almost decapitated NM, who shortly thereafter indicated a preference to return to his pack and enjoy the sun and views.

 

NM scrambling, immediately prior to turnaround:

 

Us remaining three lunatics continued on. We soon ran into a bit of route-finding trying to get out and left of this gully. After some sketchy class 4 forays up by MS and TB, I finally went down and far left and found a short, 5.easy exit, which caused some puckering of author's anus along with swearing. We naively assumed however that this would be the last "difficulty" (optimistic reading of the summitpost TR, perhaps...).

 

Where's Waldo?

 

Good times!

 

After exiting the first gully, we began ascending a second, wider, longer gully. This one started out friendly enough - easy class three, fun, breezy, even with some granite! Higher up, the rock changed, becoming more crumbly and unsavory. However, we were able to top out of this gully without any class 4 sketchiness.

 

We now saw the first prominent false summit/bump in the ridge. According to our route description, we needed to work to the north side to avoid having to do anything technical. This involved a short class 4 step to a scary perch, ledge walk, and 20 foot ascent up a sketchy section above a huge fucking drop-off. TB investigated thusly-described terrain while MS and I vacillated, pondering the risk versus benefit of our plans. TB could provide no optimistic promises of a glorious run up to the summit from his vantage point, so we vacillated some more. At this point, I stated the obvious need to "shit or get off the pot", and so, MS and I quickly joined TB at his ridge-crest vantage point.

 

We down-climbed 20 feet of sketchy, loose class 3 to some ledges then ran the ridge a few feet. From here we could see 2, maybe 3 (maybe more?) rocky pinnacles between us and the summit, with no obvious class 3 route between them. It all looked daunting. None of us was eager to venture beyond this point, roped or not (pro in crumbly rock?).

 

Vantage from our decision point (the picture does not do justice to the exposure involved):

 

After some additional procrastination we declared this to be our summit, cursed Mesahchie, and headed back to our partner. We did set up a fixed line for a short section to the North side ledge, and rappeled into the final gully (the beige one). Everything else involved slow, careful, methodical down-climbing, with some sections requiring us to go one at a time to avoid killing each other; copious rock mass was deposited lower on Mesahchie by us on this day.

 

But, the glories of this climb were far from over!

 

We then started the descending traverse to camp. If you want my advice on the best way, I can't give it. We tried our best to pick a good line, one of least resistance, and suckage, but alas, I have nothing to report but seemingly-endless, character-building terrain. To be honest, I preferred downclimbing the gullies to the traverse to camp.

 

A few hours later, we arrived, exhausted at camp. We opted for night number two, as planned, and enjoyed another glorious sunset.

 

We got up leisurely today, and hiked out. The traverse in the reverse direction was better than on the way in, but, despite staying at around a 6800 foot contour, we encountered quite a few "interesting" spots to further punish our legs, arms, bodies, and psyches. At last we hit the beautiful trail, and hauled ass to our car.

 

Some final salt in the wounds on the deproach traverse:

 

The views do ameliorate the suffering:

 

Can you hear the Sound of Music?

 

If someone can honestly tell me there is a better way to the summit of Mesahchie, I may head back, else... I'm not sure about a return visit. The ice was fun, but quite short for the approach and descent that must be endured. The views are glorious, however, and the wildflowers were out.

 

 

Gear Notes:

4 pickets, 2 screws, a few nuts, ice axe and tool, HELMET.

 

Approach Notes:

Suckage

[JasonG]

We carried over Mesahchie a couple of years ago and I quite liked the east ridge. We pretty much stayed on the crest the whole way (simul climbing), with one short rappel at some point (we were in the fog the whole time). From the summit, the best way off is to down climb to the col (good bivies) with Katsuk (Holyoke) and wrap around and down into the Fisher Creek trail. A climb back up over Easy pass completes it.

 

A very cool mountain, in a great position. You will be back.

 

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

We carried over Mesahchie a couple of years ago and I quite liked the east ridge. We pretty much stayed on the crest the whole way (simul climbing), with one short rappel at some point (we were in the fog the whole time). From the summit, the best way off is to down climb to the col (good bivies) with Katsuk (Holyoke) and wrap around and down into the Fisher Creek trail. A climb back up over Easy pass completes it.

 

A very cool mountain, in a great position. You will be back.

 

 

We saw your (or somebody's) rap sling up on the ridge proper and wondered how that had happened. Nice!

[Dan_Miller]

Entertaining TR of a route that's most probably not done too often.

 

Yep, it's a fairly loose rubble pile for the most part, (likely we were off the best, most solid route, as Jason so indicates the E Ridge might be the preferable line of ascent) pretty much like the rest of the Ragged Ridge Peaks, decidedly helmet terrain with any more than one in the party. But hey it's one of the WA 100 highest. I know I won't be back up it after my ascent many years ago.

 

Fine photos of upper Fisher Creek Basin, a cool place and the way up to the Silent Lakes, in additon to the last place anyone killed a grizzly bear in what has now become NOCA.

[JasonG]

That Mammut sling was there and we rapped off it to the south (looked pretty new at the time).

 

While it will never be mistaken for Gunsight, the rock on the crest of the east ridge is not too bad and certainly better than the rock just a short ways to either side (especially in the gullys). I would recommend the route and descent the way we did it- your TR got me thinking that it might be time to head back and climb the north ridge!

 

Dan- Thanks for the tidbit about the last grizzly, cool trivia!

[Dan_Miller]

Speaking of bears in upper Fisher Creek, about five years ago we were hanging out before ascending another very loose gulley up to the Silent Lakes and saw far and away the largest black bear I've ever encounted in the Park (in many years of exploration there dating back to the early 1970's) We followed it with the small field monocular for quite some time whilst it grazed on the abundant huckleberries. I got a couple of photos of it with just a 35mm lens, so from our distance the photos don't really do it justice. It was likely a very large male, quite dark in color, and just kept eating. I was so impressed, with it's size that I even went back to the Ranger at the desk in Marblemount on the drive home and told the on duty ranger to inform Kelly Bush of our wonderous sighting.

 

To this day I feel very fortunate to have seen such a big bear (over the years I've seen/encountered many) in the Park. No doubt King of Fisher Creek.

[Alex]

Those views of Fisher Basin are mint!

[franklinb]

BTW Mesahchie, is Native for Evil, Nasty, Bad... Sounds like you found that out. The easy route up is to traverse from the first switchback before heading down Fisher Creek -no need to descend unless you like punishment. Traverse west on teh south side fairly level. Heather, rock, not bad, but a little scrambling. Aim to end just above a bowl (6400'?) go above the bump east of it then drop down the 50-100'. Good camping. Then scramble up cl3 starting NW then N up col. Up highas the gulley narrows a buttress on the right with a carin below it. Traverse below the buttress east, then up to the saddle west of the peak. Then a ridge gulley to the summit. All cl3 with some standard Cascade loose stuff.

We passed through Easy Pass yesterday from a long loop -a bit late I guess to run into you guys. Amazing the snow still on the trail in places this time of year.

[Val Zephyr]

Nice job on the route! I've been up at the top of the icefall/couloir route twice and both times have skipped the final scramble to the summit. I've wondered if I should have gone for it. It sounds like it is as bad as it looks.

 

I have heard that the upper NR may have better rock. Perhaps one could take the icefall to the NR, bivy there (I've heard of a good bivy there), then descend via the east or west ridges? Anyone know which ridge, the east or west, is more straightforward? Just thinking....

Edited September 7, 2011 by Val Zephyr

[Gaucho Argentino]

Back from Argentina and enjoying your TR, KK!

 

Sweet climb, Dudes! There was a good reason SP did not want to go to the top last year, solid granite up there, uh? :-) ...

 

The "side-hilling" is beautiful, though :-)

[JasonG]

Val-

 

Franklin describes the best descent from the summit (gullies to the south of the west ridge). You can traverse across low on the south side of the peak to intersect the Fisher Creek trail.