[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Direct 8/16/2011

[jon_masaya]

Trip: Guye Peak - Improbable Direct

 

Date: 8/16/2011

 

Trip Report:

Steffan and I decided to head back to Guye peak yesterday. Its been a little over a year since our last attempt on the same mountain, and we had a grudge to settle with the choss monster. Its a long story, but when we were here last we had only learned a few weeks prior what the hell a "cam" or a "nut" was and had never dealt with crumbling rock faces. We crapped our pants the whole way up, didn't summit, and came home a day late. Needless to say, we were in way over our heads back then.

 

So we've spent the last year climbing nearly full-time, all over the country, exceeding even our own expectations for improvement. It was definitely time to come back.

 

We left the car around 8:30 and hit the talus field. Arrived at the rock chute below the scrambling in about 20min, popped on the rock shoes and helmets and started up. We simul soloed up for a few hundred feet, until we reached a good belay about 150' below lunch ledge. (Skipping the first 1-2 roped pitches listed in guides) Nothing harder than 5.5 to this point, but the rock quality is terrible. It felt really good to come back and be more confident and much faster on this section.

 

We did a quick pitch up to the ledge (5.6), moved the belay to the right and from there followed a short hand crack directly up (5.9?) to another face before hitting the large ramp. Good jams, albeit a bit dirty. Keeping to the right side of the upper face will keep you in better rock. This is a much faster, and we thought way more fun alternative to the improbable traverse.

 

We popped out on to the bushy ramps (discovering and reclaiming our old slings from last year!) and hiked up, following the ramps with the most trees to the summit. Got to the top at about 12pm. Following the summit ridge north (which can involve some scrambling and downclimbing) leads you to the descent trail to Alpental parking lot. With help from a random hiker giving us a lift, we were back to the car in no time. About 5hr total C2C, leaving plenty of time for burgers and beer back home.

 

Overall we had good ol' time, chatting and laughing the whole way up, just cruising. Diapers no longer needed for these two!

 

Ultimately though, the only reason I can see to climb Guye is to have the satisfaction as you drive over I-90 and see it in your face. Still good alpine training either way.

 

Steffan showing off his inner-Honnold.

 

Coming up to Lunch Ledge.

 

Taking the direct variation above Lunch Ledge.

 

More scrambling towards the top.

 

Summit!

 

Gear Notes:

helmet!!

60m Rope

single to 3"

double 0.5"-2"

lots of runners

 

Approach Notes:

Park at the gravel pullout directly below the mountain in the Olbertal (sp?) resort area. Hike straight up the talus field.

[Rad]

Nice job, but it sounds like you missed the improbably traverse section, which is supposed to be the best part of the climb. Perhaps right out on the face when you went up the 5.9 crack? I haven't been on this route and descriptions have not enticed me to do it.

[jon_masaya]

We did the traverse last time. Probably the best quality rock on that mountain. Still think going straight up was more fun though.

[kukuzka1]

the mighty guye peak rivaled only by the mighty le tooth! good job guyes

[Ed_Hobbick]

From Lunch Ledge do you literally go straight up from the Rap slings or do you go out to the right 10'-15' and then up? Looking at the picture it appears that you just went straight up and then found the crack.

 

We were just up there yesterday and found a nalgene water bottle on the ledge. We did the usual Improb Trvs

 

That's cool! Sweet climb!

Edited August 26, 2011 by Ed_Hobbick

[jon_masaya]

You can go straight up from the rap slings, but the rock leading to the overhang there is covered in tons of lichen, so we opted to go at it from the right side instead.