Unicorn Beta - Any out there?

[justcallmegary]

Any info on the snow levels from Snow Lake up the route to Unicorn. Heading up there for a wedding and was going to sneak this climb in on Friday. Wondering whether it would be worth it to drag the skis with. Thank You.

[Crickette]

Here are photos from Monday 8/15 from Unicorn. I personally would not ski down the first gully above snow lake because of the melt but down the saddle might be fun. I did ski down from Muir yesterday (wanted to try climbing in my tele boots).

 

Looking up at saddle

 

Bench and Snow Lake from summit

[justcallmegary]

Yeah.. Maybe will leave the skis at home, need room to pack my wedding suit anyway. Was the rap station / old snag tree in good shape? Did you use crampons? Thank you for the beta.

[Crickette]

Why not move the wedding to the top of unicorn? Breathtaking views and room for several special guests

 

I did not use crampons but was happy to have them on my pack. I stayed on snow as much as possible and made good toeholds on the 1st gully while my friend went over to the right rocks. The first 30+ feet is melted out significantly underneath in the middle and to the right.

 

It was my first time leading a trad pitch - fortunately it's a very easy climb on the east side. The 2nd rap station on top might be new? I don't recall seeing it last October but I was following at the time (up the south side) and probably not paying attention. I did use the one closer to the east side.

 

Enjoy!

[justcallmegary]

Thanks again. My friends getting hitched aren't climbers but sounds like a better idea. We're contemplating dragging our suits up for the summit shot. Enjoy the upcoming weekend.