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Unicorn Beta - Any out there?


justcallmegary

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Here are photos from Monday 8/15 from Unicorn. I personally would not ski down the first gully above snow lake because of the melt but down the saddle might be fun. I did ski down from Muir yesterday (wanted to try climbing in my tele boots).

 

Looking up at saddle

P1060451.JPG

 

Bench and Snow Lake from summit

P1060426.JPG

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Why not move the wedding to the top of unicorn? Breathtaking views and room for several special guests :)

 

I did not use crampons but was happy to have them on my pack. I stayed on snow as much as possible and made good toeholds on the 1st gully while my friend went over to the right rocks. The first 30+ feet is melted out significantly underneath in the middle and to the right.

 

It was my first time leading a trad pitch - fortunately it's a very easy climb on the east side. The 2nd rap station on top might be new? I don't recall seeing it last October but I was following at the time (up the south side) and probably not paying attention. I did use the one closer to the east side.

 

Enjoy!

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