Gaucho Argentino Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) Trip: Prusik Peak / West Ridge - Date: 6/20/2011 Trip Report: There is a lot of beta on the W Ridge of Prusik elsewhere, so not too much for the seasoned PNW climber but mostly for those new as me to climb in the alpine lakes area, goes this brief update of conditions, a couple of points I did not find described before, and a few pics I think you’ll enjoy if you like the outdoors. Approach from Snow Creek Trail: as of now 3 miles of trail, 6 miles of post-holing on soft snow to Prusik pass (gosh, how I hate punching through the holes that form between trees’ roots) and then may be half more a mile to the balancing rock (we saw actually three rocks balancing, the last big mama one being exactly at the base of the climb) Gear: bring a VERY light rack, we brought much more than needed. Is not the case of “finding the gear for this crack”, but pick up a piece, look around and you’ll find a somewhere to place it, beautiful trad climb… Rope/rappel: page 263 of CAG, picture says first rapel is 150 feet, so we carried two ropes. No need to. With a 60 m you’ll make it to the ledge rapeling from the chimney instead of from the bolt, and from there keep going straight down. There are more rappel stations than beer breweries in Germany. INTERESTING POINT: If you leave your boots at the beginning of the climb, beware in early season you’ll go down to snow, and then you have to traverse back to your stuff post holing with rock shoes, is not cool (well, it actually is more than cool, is cold, on your feet). Later in the season I guess is not even an issue. Overall, great enjoyable climbing on great rock and views… As for pics… Love Snow Creek Wall Cool looking cracks on the other side of Nada Lake, any idea is there any climb there? I guess access might be the issue Nice view of the West Ridge line from bivy spot in lake Viviane Matt belaying after leading pitch one, just short of the ridge top Me belaying after leading the second, just until the base of the slabs Matt on the top of the slabs, leading the third Fourth and final pitch with one difficult move before gaining the chimney Sweet summit... Shield Lake and the mountains to the north And a couple of friends we meet on the way back Gear Notes: See above Approach Notes: See above Edited June 21, 2011 by Gaucho Argentino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 That chimney pictured is a harder variation - easier chimney around corner to climber's right (west). How hard did you find this one to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaucho Argentino Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Where I am standing is more like a wide crack, big for a hand jam, small for a fist, fairly smooth, kinda difficult to jam, may be a 5.8? (would be easier if you are 2'' taller :-)... After that move, the chimney itself is an easy 5.6 IMO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Where I am standing is more like a wide crack, big for a hand jam, small for a fist, fairly smooth, kinda difficult to jam, may be a 5.8? (would be easier if you are 2'' taller :-)... After that move, the chimney itself is an easy 5.6 IMO... LOL. I almost went up that same chimney last year... my partner looked amused. Before I started he told me there was an easier chimney around the corner. :-) Nicely done, Gaucho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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