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David_Parker

Looking for ICE!!!

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Any suggestions on some later season routes with alpine ice. You know, some narrow slot or never see the sun face on a N or E face? Hard approaches to obscure locations are OK!

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North face of Joffre

North Face of the Owls

Birkenstock Couloir

North Face of Wedge

(see bivouac.com or Alpine Select for all above BS couloir is under Birkenhead peak)

N. face Shuksan

The first 5 are done & recommended

Coleman Gl. headwall

(also in Alp select)

(havent done this one)

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Razorback Mtn. Point two hours South of Bluff Lake BC in a helicopter or 1 serious day of Picketesque terrain in a valley where the grizzlies all have a crack problem. 5 established routes, each of which is about 3000 feet from Schrund to summit (bigger than true North face of Robson). No seracs above your head, no rangers, no other people.

GB

 

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For an easy approach and a truly fun route, try "The Moustache, Pencil Thin Direct" on Mt. Baker.

Approach via the North Side of the mountain, Heliotrope Ridge Trail, and ascend the bottom of the route as if you were climbing the Coleman Deming Route. Before reaching the saddle, veer left and traverse steep slopes to the base of the gully. This gully can be seen to the left of the rocks on the left side of the Roman Wall. This is the Pencil Thin variation to the route.

At times in late season these gullies can be filled with steep water ice. At least one party has found a vertical ice variation in these gullies late season.

Happy Climbing!

Jason

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Beckey lists some routes on "ice aprons" on the north sides of Fernow and Copper Peak. They sound cool, but it's a long ways in...

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