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Christopher

Shuksan

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I was there a month or so ago, the route was in fine shape. I have done this route as late as October. While Winnie's slide gets quite icy, the crevasses never seem to present too great of route finding troubles.

Maybe bring a picket and screw each for the glacier crossing, I have never found need for rock gear in the Chimneys themselves or on the summit pyramid. I recommend the left hand ridge of the pyramid, it is enjoyable 3rd class scrambling, much nicer than the loose gulley that most parties take.

I would also recommend making the extra effort and carrying bivi gear (if you are doing a two day trip)to the top of the Chimneys. There are some lovely camp sites with great views.

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A week ago I talked to some guys who had just come down from the climb and reported that it was in "top" condition. They said the chimneys were dry, there was some but not much "ice" at Winnie's Slide (I believe this is mis-marked on the 7.5 topo), and that crevasses presented little problem. The summit scramble is just that - a scramble. Ditto what DPS said, though I am not sure that a picket will do anything that you can't do with an ice axe.

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