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harness question


medicsandy

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Is there a difference in climbing harnesses for rock vs mountaineering? it's the only thing I have left to get before my Rainier climb this summer. Was going to rent, but noticed that the prices weren't that high and know I'll use it more then once. Also, any big difference in womens vs mens??

As always.....thanks!

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The key feature for a harness used for mountaineering is being able to drop the leg loops to heed the call of nature. Not all rock-climbing specific harnesses allow you to do this without taking the entire harness off and removing oneself from the safety of the rope (not an option when on a glacier). A diaper style harness (like the Black Diamond Alpine Bod) allows this quite easily. A more rock climbing style harness with a belay loop can work as well, but only if the leg loops have buckles on them and the keeper straps on the back can be unhooked/unclipped. Example would be the Black Diamond Momentum SA harness. This would be a good choice if you'll be using it for rock climbing as well.

 

Hope this helps.

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Sandy,

What DD said. I have a couple Alpine Bods that I use for rock, mountaineering, and ice climbing simply because I can take a dump without coming completely out of the thing. You can get one with waistbelt padding or without it. In my experience, I use my padded one for rock climbering, and the non-padded one for ice climbing and glacier slogs/alpine work, since I'm wearing extra "padding" (read: clothing) already.

 

My $0.02 for you: Get a non-padded one that fits you generously for rock climbing and it will also work well for slogs during colder weather or when you're wearing extra layers. The other nice thing about a non-padded Bod is that when you're not using it, it rolls up to practically nothing in your pack. Some of the other makes of rock-climbing-specific harnesses have built-in stiffeners or something in the leg loops that makes the things practically impossible to pack up into anything smaller than the size of a Volkswagen.

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What they said.

Biggest functional difference is weight, features, and padding.

Rock harness are meant to catch falls comfortably, make for a moderately comfortable hanging belay, have lots of easily accessible loops to get things off of quickly on-lead, and are not necessarily weight conscious.

 

A glacier harness (or easy alpine harness) weight / packability, and the ability to ride under a pack are the most important aspect. It'll hold a fall just fine, but won't be comfortable doing so. These are not typically harnesses you want to hang in for very long. Perfectly safe, but not very comfortable.

 

I've got a couple of bod's, but which I had a Couloir!

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