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Ice Screw/Abalakov Strength


rock-ice

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This is an interesting, and seemingly sound study, conducted by people at Strike Rescue, which I think deserves a read. Sorry if its already been posted.

 

Some of their findings:

-Lower failing point found in predrilled hole (re-boring), though not significantly lower.

Re-bored.JPG

 

-Screw strength is greatest at ~15 below horizontal.

Screw_Angle_Strength.JPG

 

 

- A-Threads (vertical abalakov) is stronger than horizontal v-threads (traditional abalakov). Averaged breaking point 14.4kN vs 7.5kN.

Abalakov_Strength.JPG

 

 

Here is a

of their testing re-boring strength.

 

 

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interesting. Wonder why they didn't do an equal amount of tests for the 2 sizes of screws. (reboring) Looks like they did 6 long rebore and did 49 short screw rebore. Would be interesting to know if the rebore for longer screw bit into new ice or was in the same size hole. Obviously the short rebore was short screw into long screw hole. Lesson? Put long screws into existing holes.

 

Also with the curve of the rebore long screw, looks like it is stronger than a v or a thread. That is unexpected. (though it would take more samples to see the real spread of data)

 

 

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