Red Rocks advice?

[jlawrence10]

My buddy and I are heading to Vegas in early December for a half climbing, half gambling and drinking trip. We're gonna hit up Red Rocks and while we have a guidebook (Red Rocks, a Climber's Guide by Jerry Handren), it's pretty thick and overwhelming. Anyone familiar enough with the place to point us in the right direction?

We're likely looking for easy-ish multi-pitch climbs. Maybe up to 5.8/5.9 if bolted, closer to 5.6/5.7 if trad. Any areas in the book we should be eyeballing? We might also want to hit up some shorter sport or even top rope climbs so my buddy can test himself a little, up to 5.10/5.11.

Any thoughts you have are much appreciated!

 

[bobinc]

Thre are lots of options for multi-pitch moderates at RR. December means shorter days and sketchier weather but you can plan accordingly for at least one of those issues.

 

South-facing climbs are the best bet so look at Solar Slab area and the mouth of Pine Creek and Oak Creek Canyon. Others will be doing the same so if you want to shed the crowds, buy some hand warmers at Big 5 and you can hit up north and east-facing routes.

 

Do a search on this site and you'll find a number of threads with specific route options.

[JosephH]

Thoughts? Sure. The gambling and drinking are overrated.

[wfinley]

Just got back from there. We too had Handren's book and were overwhelmed... so we picked up "Fun Climbs Red Rocks" by Jason Martin. It's a crummy guidebook (it does things like explains where to put your hands in a 5.4 crack to make it easier) - however it does offer a good filter for routes - and it has a huge section on routes you can TR.

 

For bolted routes check out the Panty Wall and the Oasis / Aquifer (the Aquifer isn't in Handren's book but is just right of the Oasis and has 2 easy well (overbolted) sport routes which are great for beginner leaders. My wife doesn't lead rock too often so she was psyched to lead these route.

 

It also has a small selection of multi-pitch routes -- however a better selection is on page 383 of Handen's book (look for ** and *** climbs).

 

Some pix for you:

 

My wife on a short 5.5 crack at Panty Wall. Good first gear lead.

 

My wife on a fun 5.8 at the Aquifer. Good lead for beginners.

 

"Man's Best Friend" at Sandstone quarry. 2 pitch 5.7 sport with about a zillion bolts. Try not to z-clip.

 

Cat in the Hat. 6 pitch 5.6. Fun but wanders a fair amount. The first couple of pitches are in the shade so it might be too cool for December.

 

Solar Slab. Sunny and warm... which means that everyone and their mother will be on this and nearby routes (and all share the same descent anchors). Be prepared for crowds.

[denalidave]

Stuff on the Solar Slab wall is often good in December as it does get plenty of soon and the climbing is very moderate... Have fun. Put it all on red, let it ride and stay away from the campground would be my advice...