[TR] Sperry - Southwest Shoulder 10/16/2010

[dugdaled]

Trip: Sperry - Southwest Shoulder

 

Date: 10/16/2010

 

Trip Report:

Allan and I climbed Sperry by its SW shoulder on October 16. Although Beckey calls it “class 2”, we found several class 4 sections for which we could find no bypass. It won’t take much more snow on the route to make it a much more difficult climb.

 

We approached over Headlee Pass, crossed the talus field, and skirted the lake climber’s right to get to the Vesper-Sperry col. The view down from there is excellent, showing large areas of slab and glacial remnants. The route then heads up following a trail with cairns that make it straightforward. After about 30 minutes of hiking, and at about 5500’, the scrambling began. We followed an ever fainter trail through many brushy lightly snow covered steps, eventually reaching a grassy gully about 150 vertical feet below the summit. This had class 4 moves, and significant exposure, so between the snow and mud we belayed this, Allan leading up about 100 feet. There was a rappel sling at the top of this gully. From there, easy scrambling led another 200 feet to the summit, for some fabulous views!

 

 

Descending, we reversed the route. We had not really expected to use the rope we brought, so had no other gear. But, we rigged a Dulfersitz for the rappel down the gulley (OUCH!).

 

 

From there, lots of branches and heather provided handholds for an uneventful descent, getting back to the car just before dark. This was another great day in the mountains, with a beautiful fall dusting of snow on all the peaks.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rope, runners

 

Approach Notes:

Over Headlee Pass

Edited October 19, 2010 by mattp

[justinp]

Nice

 

 

[mattp]

I edited the original post to make the pictures display properly. Justin's post is not just duplicative - he simply displayed the pictures that did not display in the original posting of the original post.

 

Damn computers.

[kukuzka1]

crisp fall days in the mountains are some of the best.