Advice for single rope knot jammy rappell

[pu]

I've only used this technique a couple times with another friend of mine and I was thinking of using it more often. I am going to buy my retrieval cord here soon.

 

What diameter retrieval cord do you use?

 

Anyone used Mammut Pro cord?

 

And other than the backup loop any other advice?

 

thanks,

 

Joe

[JosephH]

Just pick up a set of skinny twins.

[eldiente]

I use the Mammut ProCord 6mm for my pull cord, so far it has worked well. 6mm is still big enough that you can rap on it the normal way in a pinch (This happened last weekend in Squamish, the rap rings were these huge ovals that were too big for a knot or biner to jam up against. Ended up tying the 6mm to a 10mm lead line and rappelled as normal.)

 

I normally tie a bite on a eight with an extra long loop. The loop has a locker on it that gets clipped back to the rap line. The mental security blanket for me is knowing that there is no possible way a locker can fit through the rap ring. I read a recent accident report in one of the mags about a guy dying because he failed to put a biner on the loop and the knot slipped through the rings.

 

Beware of getting the rope stuck, the knot is bulky with the locker attached to it and when it gets stuck, all you have is a pile of 6mm static cord in your lap to work with. Jaime B and myself once had the pleasure of re-leading a full pitch at RR with the 6mm cord as our lead line.

 

[img:center]http://www.canyonwiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/f/f0/Autoblock_lockeds.JPG/448px-Autoblock_lockeds.JPG[/img]

-Nate

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2010 by eldiente

[JosephH]

Yeah, the 6mm thing at RR wouldn't be a good idea given pulling a rope there is basically a crapshoot anyway. Doable on granite, but not the sort of thing I like seeing anyone do except highly experienced and fairly advanced climbers.

 

Latest accident I've seen doing it was in the Valley back in May.

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1164065&tn=60

 

[letsroll]

take up a tag line and double rope rappel. Less chance of screw up.

[chris]

Just pick up a set of skinny twins.

 

I agree with JH - its worth it!