[TR] Myrtle Dome #2 - FJL (Fulton, Jeffries, Lind) 9/3/2010

[pu]

Trip: Myrtle Dome #2 - FJL (Fulton, Jeffries, Lind)

 

Date: 9/3/2010

 

Trip Report:

Dave Fulton, Steve Jeffries, and I completed a project that we had been eyeballing for some time and had resulted in a least one failed attempt about 5 years ago.

 

This route shares one pitch with a previously climbed line done by a 16 year old Dave Fulton and his mentor for the day, Jim Langdon. That was 1977.

 

The line we completed ascends clean white granite face and corners for 4 pitches. A couple sections of blank face were bolted on lead with a hand drill. One bolt was added to the face on the first pitch on rappel after we had completed the route. I was uncomfortable with leaving it as is due to the location of this route.

 

The route starts just about 50 feet right of a large rightward trending rampy corner. A person could bypass the first pitch by using the rampy corner.

 

P1 50M. Ascend 5.8 face to right curving crack, 0 TCU or Lowe Balls very handy here. Follow crack to ledge. Climb face above ledge past two bolts, Crux 10A, into dish. Follow crack in dish up and then right to single bolt Rap Anchor/Belay at the base of the prominent dihedral.

 

P2 50M. Follow the dihedral for full pitch, past an old fixed wire, courtesy Dave Fulton, to a two pin belay.

 

P3 40M. Just above the belay about 10 feet leave the dihedral via a mantle move into a scoop 5.9. 0 and 1 TCU or equivalent very handy for protecting this section. At top of scoop descend right about 10 feet into a crack/flake. Continue up crack to face past a bolt and stop at a two bolt belay.

 

P4 40M. Ascend shallow corner/face just left of belay then make your way up slabby terrain to large flake and belay ledge approx 100 feet climbers right of the twin trees on the left shoulder of the dome.

 

Descent. Rap the route starting at two spruce trees on the SE shoulder of the dome.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Single set of cams and tcu's. Starting at 0 and ending at approx #4 camalot or friend. Set of nuts. Lowe balls 4 and 5 were used because someone forgot the 0 TCU.

 

Approach Notes:

Take the Two Mouth Lake Trail for approx 30-45 minutes. As soon as you cross the first wooden boardwalk leave the trail and begin bushwhacking downhill. Your bushwhack should be a contouring descent towards the dome. You could see the dome and its talus field from the trail. Your goal is to hit the talus field near its bottom. En route there is a possibility you could become cliffed out by a small dome. If so you can either descend to the base of it and follow the base to the bottom of the talus field OR stay on top in the brush and continue shwacking to a point were you can descend to the top of the talus field. Either way. You need to get on the talus. From the highest point of the talus directly below the route there is a weakness in the brush. It will be mostly waist high ferns. Ascend ferns to cliff base. Go left along base to right trending weakness and access the base of the route.

If you screw it up on the way in the way out will be easy. From the base of the talus field go skiers left. Follow the talus at the base of the small slabs/dome. Once past the dome make a right trending ascent. You will run into the trail in about 20 minutes from the talus. Approach will take about 2 Hours.

[Skatan]

Nice tick guys!

[spotly]

Nice work and great description on the approach and route. Probably stiffer than I'll lead but good to know that someone is out there cleaning things up

[fultonville]

It was great to be back after so long. Good climbing with Joe and Steve as well. Nice description Joe! Makes me wanna get back there. None the less, if I could figure out how to include jpegs I'd throw some on!

[fultonville]

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=cd12375a81&view=att&th=12b06d7ee9df335a&attid=0.1&disp=inline&zw

 

This is Joe on the second pitch. Fun corner through the roof eentually. Hope that comes through!

[sobo]

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=cd12375a81&view=att&th=12b06d7ee9df335a&attid=0.1&disp=inline&zw

Linky no worky...

[fultonville]

Crap...I guess I can't do this photo load thing. Wonder why I can't paste like on all other websites?

[pindude]

Dave, it's because cc.com is so special. When you post, click on the camera icon. Once the pop-up window opens, scroll down and you'll see the "upload pictures" button. I'm sure you'll get it from there.

 

Great climb you three: way to get after it and glad to hear about it.

 

--Steve

[fultonville]

Thanks Steve, hope this works!

 

 

The butt shot is Joe working his way though the roofs on the second pitch. The next one is belaying the top of the third pitch.