Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys conditions

[rekogan]

Thinking about giving the chimneys a go on Thursday/Friday - any idea about current conditions? Last reports I saw were from over 2 weeks ago indicating that there was a substantial amount of snow lingering in the chimneys and on the summit pyramid. Anyone catch a glimpse of the route recently?

 

Thanks in advance for any info.

[ivan]

oldlarry on this site is looking for a partner fo rhat very route if you're intersted - did it about 2 weeks ago and imagine the snow still lingers on the descent from the pyramid, but would recommend you ascend on the right-hand ridge anyhow - suspect there are some big gapers attaining the initial section of the chimneys, but hey that's mountainnering for you at least you oughta be able to drive to the trailhead now...

[kinnikinnick]

some friends and i descended the chimneys july 20th after a climb of the north face and they were 99% snow free so they should definitely be clear by now. there WAS a good amount of snow in the summit gully but it looked easily climbable with a solid bootpack. we climbed the southeast rib and i'd recommend it over the standard scramble route.

[JoshK]

my friend was just up there guiding a couple of days ago and said the summit chimney snow is almost entirely gone now, just a few small patches.

[rekogan]

Thanks for the info guys! Probably a bit late for more partners this trip, but maybe next time.

 

Any sage advice on avoiding routefinding problems entering/in the chimneys?

[counterfeitfake]

Apparently you follow the spray-painted arrow.

[rekogan]

UPDATE:

 

Climbed the route on Friday. Excellent conditions. No snow in the chimneys, no exposed ice on Winnie's slide, can still get onto the Upper Curtis without treading on bare ice, Hell's Highway in good shape but quite steep (slightly steeper than the slide), small snow patch low on the summit pyramid proper.

 

A bit of a moat getting on the upper chimneys, but not especially troublesome.