My Gear List: Please critique it!

[Nitrox]

I think it's a great harness. I've used it for over 7 years. No problems. No real significant signs of wear.

 

No argument, I have three for the wife and kids. I needed larger gear loops so I replaced it.

 

 

[summitchaserCJB]

ah. Haven't had that problem. But ya there are better harnesses out there.

[ktschmid]

im gonna have to agree w water on the inexpensive pants and i would add inexpensive gaiters (cheaper than front points) if you're just getting started because unless you have experience walking in crampons from somewhere else, or you have ballet-like grace, you will probs put a front point through your BD front points.

[summitchaserCJB]

I tend towards burlier gaitors. But that's just me.

[Jon H]

Expect to ruin your pants on your first couple days out. The first time I put on crampons I didn't make it 10 steps before I snagged the cuff of my pants and put a 1/2" tear in. But that was the first and last time I ever made that mistake.

 

I took my buddy out for his first day of ice out last season... and he SHREDDED his pants. Must have snagged them no less and 12-13 times that day. But he's a big clumsy oaf. Your mileage may vary.

 

Skip the Seracs. Get a BD Sabertooth or Grivel G12. They walk fine. IMO it's not worth dropping "below" those crampons (in terms of aggressiveness) unless you're buying a dedicated lightweight 'pon (prob aluminum) for routes where you know with certainty there won't be any technical ice. If there's a chance you're gonna have to frontpoint, get a real set of crampons. Otherwise you'll be chopping steps like the good old days.

 

Ditto on Coldfinger's gear list. Learn how to self rescue. Tyson and Loomis' book "Climbing Self Rescue" is a good start. Also get Mountaineering: Freedom Of The Hills and read it cover to cover 3 times.

 

FWIW, since getting a pair of good softshell pants (Stoic Tour's - got 2 pairs on SteepandCheap for $120 and then 29.99, go figure ) I don't think I've ever worn my hardshell pants since.

[RaisedByPikas]

I agree on the Reverso, but I hate my BD Momentum harness... Maybe mine is defective, but the leg loops will never stay put and always get loose quickly (yes, I know how to double back the webbing). Last week, I get to the top of a climb and almost tripped over one leg loop that had come completely undone while I was climbing. Could have taken a looooong ride as I had run the whole easy pitch out. I also don't like how small the gear loops are. Just my two cents...

 

Would you mind posting detailed pictures of the buckle (front and back) on your leg loops as well as how you buckle them. I'm not doubting that your doubling back correctly but the engineer in me is saying that there must be a reason that your harness is defective considering thousands of these things have had no problems. Have you been able to duplicate the problem while not climbing, i.e. jiggling the leg loops with your hand while just standing around?

 

I was able to make my leg loops loosen a little but only when I had the excess strap tucked into the little keeper slot on the padding.