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Posted

:)

 

i imagine the sensible crew stayed away from the summit last weekend - why hell, even fred beckey bailed on that there particuliar mtn, sounds like! :P

Posted

Climbed Thursday and got a Sudden Planar, Q1 at 9800ft on 28 degrees, S aspect 30cm down at 5am. It failed on the melt freeze layer from Sunday. Observed 30cm - 50cm of snow from the Tues-Wed storm cycle. Thursday had a inversion with snow temp 6 inches down -5C at 8500ft and -2 at 9800ft.

 

NOW the good news, by Saturday night, Sunday morning, the bonding at the same location was in good shape. Got a CT 26 on a Q2+. Good solid conditions observed up high on the hill and we climbed to the summit via old chute.

 

Conditions should remain good through this week, planning on climbing myself Tuesday night/Wed morning. Hope this helps

 

 

Posted
conditions are prime for the palmer headwall direct redpoint

 

That would be a very prestigious send, but I'm not sure if my level of ability is up to it currently. I'm thinking a better strategy for me would be to headpoint it: take a helicopter to the summit, practice the climbing on toprope, and pre-place gear for my final push.

Posted

not nonsense at all ole'larry - first time i clibmed the spur was solo the first week of july - take an axe n' a second tool n' rage! seeing as how the road's still closed (i imagine?) just go up there alone w/ the plan to bivy at tie-in rock n' do the climb next day - the descent down the spur really isn't bad..

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