Looking For Experienced Climbers for Mt. Rainier

[emalclimber]

Thank you very much. I have had great responses and learned a lot. Looking forward to our successful climb.

[saxybrian]

I'll give you my 2 cents because I was in your exact shoes 2 years ago.

 

Also don't listen to half the people on the boards as they just like to start crap on the net.

 

Getting up Rainier isn't very complex, but shouldn't be taken lightly. On a great day it's pretty much a hella hike to the summit. On crappy days, you can be in 80-100mph winds, white out or have an injury to deal with.

 

Do what I do for people, have them look at RMI's website for gear they need "Personal Gear" and have them pretty much get everything on that list.

 

Then look at Group gear. Such as Stove/Tent/Etc. I'd look at bringing 1 stove per 3-4 people that go up with you. Also remember you don't want to pack you're entire collection of stuff, and you also don't want to go underprepared too. A good medium is perfect.

 

When I went in April, I took all my cold weather gear, but didn't take a camera/phone things like that, that would lighten my pack up. In the summer months you may not need as much cold weather gear so you could probably take things like a camera instead. However if you haven't done it, I'd probably have 1/2 camera's on the trip and consider it group gear.

 

As far as being prepared. My first year out I did very little to no cardio work out and got my butt handed to me on the way to Muir. I thought it was going to be easy and it was the hardest thing I've ever done.

 

If you have hills/mountains get on them, load up with 50-60lbs and get on them.

if not, jog/bike/hike, if you can't do that, stairmaster with 50-60lbs +10lbs of weight or do treadmill on a 15% incline.

 

Keep an eye on your teams cardio when you train as you're going to be as fast as your slowest member and in certain situations that can really suck. I've been that slow person before and there's a real crappy feeling about being it.

 

Work on learning c/z pulley systems before you get there, make sure everyone knows it, make sure everyone knows their knots backwards and forwards. If you can do that and they can make a pulley system w/o any issues, you should be fine if you have a crevasse fall.

 

Arresting. Hike up to Muir, find a spot close to muir or in that area and work on self arresting on something small, not something that has a 600ft fall potential Get that down, on belly, upside down, sideways, andywy you can think to fall do it.

 

Take an extra day! Don't do the summit in the typical 2 day push, make it 3. If it's your first time you're going to be tired, not know what to expect. I enjoy the hike to Muir day 1, day 2 hike to Ingraham Flats scout the route get used to glacier travel and head back and rest. Day 3 hit summit and return home.

 

Summit day. Wake up somewhat early 12am-ish and try to find a guide group and stay behind them, don't follow super close, but enough distance to know if they turn around, you are too. Basically don't be the first or last team to leave camp.

 

Also remember that having a successful climb isn't always hitting the summit it's about learning and having fun. As long as you always learn each trip and have a good time it's a success in my eyes. When I went in april and encountered 89mph winds / white out / and minus 20 temps I learned more on that trip than I had any other outting ever. I also had one of the best experiences even though it was nasty nasty weather.

 

Another thing. Youtube videos on anchors, rainier, packing your bags, how to adjust them, cramponing, snow caves, arresting falls, etc...

 

Make all your friends read the Rainier accident reports from the past and what happened to the climbers. Look how they got injuried or died and look how you could improve that on your team. Almost every one of them were/are preventable with the exception of 1/2 that I read.

 

In other words, you don't need a guide, just do your home work, and in the end it's your life. If you're willing to pay 1000 for a guide, then go for it, if not, do 40-80 hours of home work and save yourself the cash and learn it because you'll be able to retain that and use it over and over again.

[emalclimber]

Thank you very much. This is great information and We will put it into practice.