zoroastr Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) Trip: Mt. Stuart - Sherpa Glacier Date: 5/30/2010 Trip Report: Ok, we didn't actually top out, but we managed to climb enough of the route to give what is hopefully a somewhat useful report on current conditions for the Sherpa Glacier on Stuart. Yesterday, Erick Johnson and I headed over to Leavenworth for another of our single-day C2C adventures. This time, the objective was the relaxed and scenic Sherpa Glacier route on Mt. Stuart. We started from Colchuck Lk trailhead at 9:30 am and, after enduring the almost comically torturous approach, we arrived at the base of the peak in time to bid farewell to a couple of parties retreating due to concerns about avalanche danger and deep, fresh powder...yay. As we started up the route, the snowpack seemed stable enough, allthough it was a bit of a slog. Before long, we were at the base of the couloir proper and were pleased to discover firmer snow conditions. Crampons, it turned out, were optional in the nicely consolidated but still soft powder. I'd never done this route, but found it to be a very enjoyable and laid-back gully romp. After exiting the couloir and starting the climb to the false summit, we were eventually blocked by deteriorating weather conditions and deep, slide-prone powder. The pic below shows the route up, and our eventual stopping point. While probing the snowpack at the turn-around spot, Erick easily set off a non-trivial foot-thick slide that gave us pause. After a snack and chat, consensus was quickly reached, and we reluctantly bailed. Booting back down the Sherpa was bliss, and we were back at the car at around 6:00 pm. I don't think I've ever enjoyed a failed climb as much as this one; the area feels slightly remote, affords some truly awesome views, and is well-positioned for short, single-day sprints with light packs. Once in the couloir, we booted quickly up the middle after noticing the heaviliy-loaded cornices on both sides... Cain moving quickly up the moderately steep gully which, despite the recent dump of fresh, somehow managed to get a tad icy for the last couple of hundred feet. Sherpa peak and its Balanced Rock, as seen from the top of the gully. With the weather closing in, E. Johnson probes a slope before commiting to a short descent to a notch on the upper ridge. After opting to bail, Johnson waits at the col before starting back down. The weather never did clear, although we did get a quick glimpse of Sherpa Pk. from the upper ridge...purdy! We'll give this route a week or two to firm up and then finish it off. Edited June 1, 2010 by zoroastr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everyfrog Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Thanks for the report - a friend I have slated to do this at the end of June. We'll be keeping an eye out on more conditions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 Nice area and photos I really want to get into that area to do a few peaks tried last year but we got weathered out before we even started climbing the wind was blowing really hard.It sounded like some one blowing hard into a bottle is the best way to describe are sleepless night complete with a white out.good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 Awesome Trip! I've wanted to do this route, although now I am considering it as a decend route for a more demanding route on the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 What's the Ice Cliff look like right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 R.P. My partner on this trip, Erick Johnson, soloed the Ice Cliff Gl. route in winter a few seasons back, and I think he remarked that it looked in shape this year. I'll ping him with your info request and ask him to post here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 I'll ping him with your info request and ask him to post here. Appreciated! I too would like to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekopunch Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I was in the party that left on Sunday after you arrived. Wow, so you went from your car to the top of the couloir and back to your car in about an hour longer than it took us to get from the cars to camp on Saturday. Well done! What's the Ice Cliff look like right now? Here you go. I'll PM you a link to the album where you can download them in higher res. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Great photos and TR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Heading up there. Will report back with conditions most likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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