[TR] Lane Peak - Zipper 5/15/2010

[chubler]

Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper

 

Date: 5/15/2010

 

Trip Report:

My brother and I climbed Zipper on Lane Peak this last Saturday (5/15). We left o'dark early, scarffed down some PB&J sandwiches and coffee and busted to MRNP.

 

The gate to refelction lakes is open and the road is plowed in past where we parked at the major bend in the road. We left the truck at 5:30, donned the snow shoes as we knew we would need them on the way out with temps in the 70's.

 

Crossing Tatoosh Creek was a non-issue, but the remaining snow bridges will be gone soon making route finding difficult. We got to the base of zipper after crossing a couple of wet sluff avalanches, cached some gear and started up. The route was pretty much straight forward with no exposed rock in the middle. A couple of of small moats have opened but are no issue. Conditions inside the couloir were nice - mixed snow and little ice. Mainly it was an axe plunge fest and single kicks going up - crampons were nice to have.

 

We were visited by a few grapefruit rocks and one small spin avalanche. Funny when the rocks are falling at you they seem to be going very fast, but they SLOWLY rolled by. Wouldn't have been the case if it was icy. There is a cornice at the top of the route on the east side that is going to give way soon - watch out.

 

We topped out at 9:30 in the sun and due to the temps and lack of desire to post-hole to the summit, we elected to post hole down the backside to the saddle between Lane and Denman.

 

We booked down to our cache, donned the floatation devices and hoofed out to the truck. Spent lunch people watching at Paradise and then enjoyed pizza and beer back at home that night.

 

Beautiful day, mountain to ourselves and a fantastic day with my brother - just gets me amped for next time. So, what's next??

 

 

Cheers!!

 

Colby

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axes, crampons, PB&J sandwiches at 3:00 AM and take floatation devices - it's sloppy on the way down.

 

Approach Notes:

Road into Reflection Lakes is open, few snow bridges left on Tatoosh Creek - take snow shoes or skies

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Edited May 19, 2010 by chubler

[Peakpimp]

Nice! I went to solo that one last week and foolishly forgot to bring extra money for the park entrance fee and had to turn back. DOH! Good work!

[chubler]

Nice! I went to solo that one last week and foolishly forgot to bring extra money for the park entrance fee and had to turn back. DOH! Good work!

 

It's still in good shape for your next time up there. Not sure when the park is going to get their after hours machine up and running. Those of us that don't carry cash rely on the plastic to carry us through. Thankfully my bro had cash, otherwise we would have been in the same situation.

[justinp]

mmm PB&J making me hungry! It' always a blast climbing with family

 

Be looking for those pics

 

 

[chubler]

Bump - PHOTOS ADDED! Finally figured that baby out.

[cms829]

good job dude. hopefully it stays in for 3 more weeks. Question....What one of beckey's books is Lane peak in? And...once the creek melts out....what is the approach like? any other ways?

[chubler]

There is at least 6' of snow in the basin and with a weather forecast calling for snow levels around 3000-5000 for the next week or so, I think you will be fine. Worst case if you are tight on crossing, park further east on the road (closer to the head of the creek) - it may add a few more minutes of hiking but better than wet boots.

 

The Becky Alpine Guide that includes Lane Peak is the Columbia River to Steven's Pass...although the description for Lane is pretty limited. You will get far better beta from this site. Do a TR search on Lane and check out all the info - quite a bit in here.

 

Have a good time on it - it's a blast!

[cms829]

I checked out all the TR's I could find. And Im lost on findin ratings for the 3 couloirs, and more in depth approach info. Especially relating to when I'll be there on the 12th. Could you maybe shoot me some more insight? I would prefer a Rap descent. I'll have a 70 meter. possible? If so...whats the deal with rapping off this thing? Im a little confused by previous TR's. Or should we just descend the back side? easier? Are we going to be crossing the creek in two weeks? or is there another way across?

 

Heres the skinny, I would like to find something to climb in the morning of the 13th...then climb lane peak on the 14th. On the 13th we would have to go pick someone up from Seatac at 4 so leave RMNP around 2... any other cool couliors around Lane peak or Cougar Rock??

 

any insight/help/beta etc is GREATLY appreciated!!!

[lazyalpinist]

I checked out all the TR's I could find. And Im lost on findin ratings for the 3 couloirs, and more in depth approach info. Especially relating to when I'll be there on the 12th. Could you maybe shoot me some more insight? I would prefer a Rap descent. I'll have a 70 meter. possible? If so...whats the deal with rapping off this thing? Im a little confused by previous TR's. Or should we just descend the back side? easier? Are we going to be crossing the creek in two weeks? or is there another way across?

 

Probably not the thread for this (as it is someone's TR...) but...

 

I don't have good approach info other than park and walk toward mountain. (It is literally less than 2 miles from car to summit.) I believe the road is open now, but I am not sure.

 

Not sure what you are looking for in ratings? I'd say all are a Grade I, and snow to 50°. Perhaps some 3rd/4th class rock depending on conditions. (I climbed Lover's Lane in February and there was some WI2 on it as well.)

 

Prefer a rap to a walk off? Most people walk off the other side or return down The Zipper skiing. There are rap slings near the summit on a small tree if you feel the need to rap off the summit.

 

You have to cross the creek, how is decided by the conditions and you.

 

And The Zipper is easily done car to car in 5 hours.

[chubler]

Slip-striking my TR is not a concern by me....it's all good.

 

Lazyalpinist is right, it's a quick trip and the road IS open. You can downclimb zipper or walk off the south side. It's a gentle southern slope down to the saddle between Lane and Denman,turn North and work your way through the trees down to the bottom.

 

You can rap from the top down to the snag at the top of ziper or downclimb - really depends on the melt off and how much rock is exposed.

 

Snow levels have still been fairly low - I don't think you'll have too much of an issue crossing the creek - worst case is you'll do some jumping.

 

In terms of another quick climb, you can slog up Denman or bust back to your car, drive down the road a bit further and climb The Castle??? Anything in the Tatoosh is pretty accessible - especially since Lane is such a quick climb.

[cms829]

Thanks guys....didnt mean to take away from the TR.

[Raindawg]

I don't have good approach info other than park and walk toward mountain. (It is literally less than 2 miles from car to summit.) I believe the road is open now, but I am not sure.

From Longmire, drive up the road toward Paradise about 9 miles. A few switchbacks past Narada Falls is the turnoff to Stevens Canyon Road. Turn right onto the road and in maybe 1/4 of a mile there will be a big turn-out with a great view. A couple hundred yards past there, just where the road starts veering west into a wooded area, there is a shallow road cut. I have often parked there. Head straight down through the woods (you'll cross over the Wonderland Trail in 100 feet or so) perhaps bearing slightly right until you reach the flat area at the bottom. Follow the valley right (it can be marshy during the summer) until you're below the mighty North Face of Lane Peak. From there you can cross the creek on logs or whatever you find.

 

 

Most people walk off the other side or return down The Zipper skiing.

What? Ski down the Zipper? It's been done a few times but I'd consider it extreme. Most people do walk off the back and down the Lane/Denman basin and then down through the trees, hopefully after visiting Lane's beautiful summit.