Rock Climbing development in Yunnan, China

[LaughingSquirrel]

Hello, we are looking for someone to come out to Lijiang, China to help develop the rock climbing scene. Lijiang is a small city in the province of Yunnan, China. Located 200 miles south of the tibet border, this area is very popular for its snow mountains, the worlds deepest gorges, and a rich minority culture of Tibetan and Naxi.

 

In a nutshell this area has potential to be another international climbing destination. We have access to an area that could see more than 250 limestone sport routes. Enough to rival the climbing in Yangshuo and Thailand. We also have access to another area that is traditional climbing, sandstone rock, and reminiscent of Indian Creek, but the walls are close to 300 meters. STOUT crack climbing. This area is very large as well and has seen zero ascents. If you want to come out and help in the development in these areas as well as some other alpine opportunities on the local mountains (keep in mind this area is the foothills to the Himalayas, most peaks are 18,000 and up), please contact me via email at mdobie012@yahoo.com. We can provide a room, food, local transportation, help with visa, and an experience of a lifetime!

 

Requirements:

-Have set up at least 10 rock routes or 1-2 years experience in sport/trad crag development

 

-Competent 5.10 trad and sport leader

 

-Alpine experience preferred

 

Sincerely, Mike Dobie

 

Head Guide/Development Coordinator

Highland Explorations

 

Edited May 17, 2010 by LaughingSquirrel

[markwebster]

Hey Mike,

 

so, you are doing this with Austin right? When is he going to post some pictures? I'd love to see what you guys are up to over there.

 

Mark

[LaughingSquirrel]

 

Hey Mark, here are a few picture from the Dongba Valley project that we are working on. Nothing like sport climbing at 11,000 ft. Ha!! Hope you well man! Lots going on over here.

[LaughingSquirrel]

 

And here are a few more. The first is a crag that has 7 routes on it already. mostly 5.11 to 5.12. The second is one of the valleys in Liming. Where it will all go trad. Can you believe that No one has climbed here yet?? On the frontier brotha!

[markwebster]

That looks awesome! The beauty alone is worth the visit, never mind the climbing.

 

This job has been burning me out lately, I wonder if my wife would approve of a 5 year vacation over there...

 

Just kidding. You guys are lucky to be young and carefree. I am very envious. What are the living conditions? Do you have houses and cars? Are there any other Americans? Can you buy climbing gear?

 

How do you make money?

 

 

[LaughingSquirrel]

Hey Mark! Yeah the beauty here is worth the visit. About an hour north of here is the leaping tiger gorge. Its over 3,000 meters deep. Flanked on either side with walls of limestone that put yosemite to shame. Its just a matter of mustering up enough courage to get up it Limestone and trad are kind of oxymorons.

 

The living conditions here are actually very good. As a company there are 6 of us living in an apartment that we have rented for the company. Still have lots of room to accommodate other staff! The family that owns the building lives right next door. They are a Naxi family. Really nice couple with two kids. Its amazing to witness their culture and language. I don't speak much naxi but to say hello you say Ah law law lay. Amazing! For money we are opening a bar called the "yeti" and it should be opening within the month. But for the most part right now we are depending on our investors until we get up and running. Its going to be the best bar in Shuhe. Shuhe is were we live, kind of like the wild west of america meets tibet in architecture. The town is nestled at the base of the yulong snow mountain (elevation 18,300) and its quite an attraction in china. So I just talk to Austin and we don't see any reason why you and your wife shouldn't come out here for a month or two. Give you a place to live and food to eat For climbing gear we have been sponsored by a few companies and we can order really anything we want. Let me know what you think man! Cheers, Mike Dobie

 

PS. Could you ask craig what he thinks about coming out here as well?

[aussie69]

Webster!

So here's the gig. Your kids are in college. You've paid off everything. Nothing tying you and your wife down right? Rent the house out, buy a boat ticket, and get your butt out here! I know your not too big a fan of planes so a steamer might suit ya ;D we'll come pick you up at the port. By the way, yup we have a car. Thats how we've been gettin' around and exploring. This place is beyond belief... I'll be picking a jeep up when I get back from the states to really get in there and penetrate the depths of this place. Saving the photos for a slideshow when I'm in Seattle. You'll have to drop by. That camera you sold me is a champ. Been draggin it all over in that hand stitched case you made. No problem.

[markwebster]

Jeez, you guys shouldn't tempt me like this. You know I have a wild streak. Dropping everything and going to China sounds wonderful. Sadly though, I don't think running away from my problems is the solution. I need to deal with them here.

 

Next summer after Lisa graduates and moves out is a possibility as Sue could join me. I have September off, both kids will be out of the house. Though there is this September...hmmmm.

 

I'll mention this to Craig...he is crazy enough to consider it, but he just finished his aa degree and is starting to make big bucks at the shipyard.

 

By the way, Austin, I deleted my facebook account. It was becoming too much of a distraction and impacting my productivity at work. More pictures?

[JoshK]

Flanked on either side with walls of limestone that put yosemite to shame. Its just a matter of mustering up enough courage to get up it Limestone and trad are kind of oxymorons.

 

Hmm, not that I have a clue what I'm talking about, but seems kind of hard to "put it to shame" when you are comparing ragged limestone cliffs to perfect granite formations. Those pictures look absolutely gorgeous though, that has to be a pretty amazing setting to be living in.

[sobo]

...About an hour north of here is the leaping tiger gorge. Its over 3,000 meters deep...

Really? That's almost 10,000 feet... Is that the height of the actual climbable portion of the wall, or the depth from rim to floor (with not all of that being climbable)?

 

Nevermind... answered my own question. And apparently it's 2,000 meters deep.

Edited May 19, 2010 by sobo

[aussie69]

When ever you want to come Webster our door is always open. Warning though, you won't wan't to leave...

 

Joshk: It's indisputable that Yosemite with it's luscious granite is beyond. woewoewoe [Quick side note some hot Chinese chick is Knuckle deep in the 'ol "goldmine" if you catch my drift. I love this place ] anyhow, back to what I was gettin at. These Sandstone cliffs are on a level beyond what we have in the lower 48's. There's nothing like staring at a virgin 1,500ft+ crack while standing in a valley surrounded by forests filled with such life. Monkeys, palm trees, firs, natives who don't even speak Chinese, red pandas, antelope, rare flora... The list goes on and on. When you compare the whole picture, a.k.a not just the rock, Liming/Laojunshan takes the cake. Bar-none. At the moment though, due to park restrictions not a soul can get on these picturesque lines. No worries though. We're working with the park to open up sustainable tourism options. I.E. trad rock climbing ;] So hopefully one of these days you'll all be able to catch a flight, join us for a beer, and then get on some bomber crack and develop your own opinions about the place.

 

Oh and the gorge. regardless of what the wiki site says or the signs in the actual park. Keep this in mind. On either side of the valley is a summit that reaches further than 5,300meters into the air. Shear face sizes... Semantics...

 

When it comes down to it. Just come and check it out for your selves. It'd be nice to get more people out here to help develop the areas we've already been granted access too.