telemarker Posted April 19, 2002 Posted April 19, 2002 Anyone ever climb meat grinder at alphabet rock? I led it for the first time last night, after top roping a few times last week. Great climb, in a great setting. The off width/flaring pod is a kick. Now, it'd be fun to lead Z-crack, but I don't think I want to commit yet to a dyno to fingerlock opening move. Quote
erik Posted April 19, 2002 Posted April 19, 2002 fun route..... couple years ago on my bday....i fell out of the ow and hit the ledge below......yowerzers!!!! z crack is some good crankin too!!!! also the sport route on the left side of the formation with those giant heucos is fun....you can crawl inside those things are party!!! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted April 19, 2002 Posted April 19, 2002 Right on, Telemarketer, Rope soloed that beetch a week or two ago. You can get pretty twisted up in that OW pod trying to figure out the right sequence. Like playing twister in a squeeze chimney with a rack on. And you think that's fun?! There could be a future for you in the alpine. You need to throw your self at Z-crack. The pro for that opening move is as good as it gets. The moves get progressively easier but until you get your feet up to the next horizontal you do not have much of a stance to place gear from. If you're up for it, I'll give you a belay after work on Tuesday. I want to lead a former TR problem over to the right. Quote
telemarker Posted April 19, 2002 Author Posted April 19, 2002 Retro, you bet after work Tues., but I'm in Seattle all week next week, but the Tuesday following...The o/w on meatgrinder takes a great left kneebar/jam that lets me get my left handjam higher and it's all good after that. I do it as combo handjam-lieback. I wanted to lead that bolted climb by dogleg too. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted April 19, 2002 Posted April 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by telemarker: ...I wanted to lead that bolted climb by dogleg too. without the bolts? Quote
Retrosaurus Posted April 19, 2002 Posted April 19, 2002 . [ 04-19-2002, 01:53 PM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ] Quote
telemarker Posted April 19, 2002 Author Posted April 19, 2002 Retro, It's bolted now, actually. Leave your #3 Crescent wrench at home. Quote
rayborbon Posted April 20, 2002 Posted April 20, 2002 Meat Grinder good roadside craggin round there. Mounties be there this weekend no? Quote
Jarred_Jackman Posted April 21, 2002 Posted April 21, 2002 Hey guys, is access to the top of Z-crack easy for setting up top rope? Can I hike up there or would I climb Meatgrinder then walk a ledge, I have a picture but haven't been up there yet. Thanks Quote
Uncle_Tricky Posted April 21, 2002 Posted April 21, 2002 Question: Is access to the top of Z-crack easy for setting up top rope? Answer: yes, you can scramble up a short chimney to the right. [ 04-21-2002, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ] Quote
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