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Wakaranai

Walter B @ Index (anchor bolt a bit sketchy)

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was up on this climb today and noticed the left of the two anchor bolts was really loose, the bolt, not the nut. I dont have a ton of bolting experience but Ive found this to occur when the bolt is either over torqued or the wedge sleeve expands in a softer layer of rock. The anchor is equipped with really nice hardware, Madrock hangers, brand new bolts and anchor biners too, so it would be even more of a shame if it were to fail. Anyhow, the other bolt seems solid and it held but I would be happy to put a new bolt in (3/8" SS trubolt) and move the hardware if the caretaker didnt object. Or if anyone else gets to it first, bring a drill. Its a real nice route.

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the bolt is loose, but not the nut? usually it's the other way around. unless they used loctite, i don't see how the nut would remain tight with a loose bolt.

 

regardless, tighten it down and see if it bites again. it's possible it wasn't tightened enough in the first place.

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Sorry, the nut is probably loose too and had been threaded quite a bit, which is why I thought maybe it was over torqued. Tightening it might be all it needs but it was moving quite a bit in the hole laterally and up and down. It felt like I could pull it out with a good yank. Worth a look anyways.

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it was a standard 3/8 bolt using, standard practices. no loctite, over-torqueing, etc.

what ive noticed with many bolts placed at index, during the first couple years it seems that freeze thaw can loosen the bolts a bit, requiring re-tightening, which usually takes care of the problem. (or maybe its just the train vibration/5th force combo thats the culprit.)

im going out today, ill have a look.

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