Wakaranai Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 was up on this climb today and noticed the left of the two anchor bolts was really loose, the bolt, not the nut. I dont have a ton of bolting experience but Ive found this to occur when the bolt is either over torqued or the wedge sleeve expands in a softer layer of rock. The anchor is equipped with really nice hardware, Madrock hangers, brand new bolts and anchor biners too, so it would be even more of a shame if it were to fail. Anyhow, the other bolt seems solid and it held but I would be happy to put a new bolt in (3/8" SS trubolt) and move the hardware if the caretaker didnt object. Or if anyone else gets to it first, bring a drill. Its a real nice route. Quote
Wakaranai Posted May 9, 2010 Author Posted May 9, 2010 there is but I bet most would clip the first one since its such nice hardware. Quote
Kimmo Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 the bolt is loose, but not the nut? usually it's the other way around. unless they used loctite, i don't see how the nut would remain tight with a loose bolt. Â regardless, tighten it down and see if it bites again. it's possible it wasn't tightened enough in the first place. Quote
Wakaranai Posted May 10, 2010 Author Posted May 10, 2010 Sorry, the nut is probably loose too and had been threaded quite a bit, which is why I thought maybe it was over torqued. Tightening it might be all it needs but it was moving quite a bit in the hole laterally and up and down. It felt like I could pull it out with a good yank. Worth a look anyways. Quote
Kimmo Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 yeah that sounds kinda bad. thanks for head's up. Quote
backcountrydog Posted May 11, 2010 Posted May 11, 2010 it was a standard 3/8 bolt using, standard practices. no loctite, over-torqueing, etc. what ive noticed with many bolts placed at index, during the first couple years it seems that freeze thaw can loosen the bolts a bit, requiring re-tightening, which usually takes care of the problem. (or maybe its just the train vibration/5th force combo thats the culprit.) im going out today, ill have a look. Quote
backcountrydog Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 tightened the anchor bolt and the others on the route as well...all is right in the world again. chris Quote
Wakaranai Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 Good to hear it was just in need of a wrench. sorry for the whoopla Quote
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