[TR] Eight Mile Buttress - Tree and Stump Linkup 4/25/2010

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Eight Mile Buttress - Tree and Stump Linkup

 

Date: 4/25/2010

 

Trip Report:

My partner JH and I headed out to warm rock as a backup to alpine climb plans gone awry due to recent snow. We opted for a 5.easy day and the link-up described in the new Leavenworth Rock guide of the Tree route (3 pitches up to 5.6) plus the Stump (same) sounded like a good one to get back into things.

 

I have never climbed the Tree Route and was worried about all the talk about it swallowing big gear. I found it pretty mellow, only needing a C4 #4 and #3 on the first pitch, and a C4 #4 and BD hex #11 on the "infamous" off-width (pitch 3). I carried a #5 cam up to the summit for no reason. The first pitch of this route is all under-clingy up to 5.6 - not my favorite. Protection was fine. The third pitch of this route is very enjoyable 5.6.

 

Looking up from the base of the Tree Route:

 

The Stump route has a great first pitch involving a nice 5.6 crack - very protectable. We had route-finding issues on pitch two veering far right of the bolted 5.10- route. We ended up with an "adventurous" pitch three from an awkward gear anchor near an old, ratty rap sling. I clipped an old rusty piton, and a permanently-placed nut en route to a large tree. We didn't quite reach the top on pitch 3 due to rope drag, and had a short 50 foot belay to the top. For pitch 2, we should have stayed farther left.

 

View of Stuart from the top of the Stump Route:

 

We carried approach shoes to the summit which made our walk-off a lot better. To rappel the routes you really need two 60 m ropes, and we only had one (and you still have to scramble a couple of hundred feet between the routes). We only ran into one other party the whole day (at the beginning of the Tree route).

 

 

Gear Notes:

Large gear needed/used: C4 #3, #4, BD Hex #11

Approach shoes if not rapping (2 60m needed)

 

 

Approach Notes:

Short, quick.

Edited April 27, 2010 by KaskadskyjKozak

[mountainsloth]

cool. the tree route is a fun easy outing. I often use it to introduce newbies to multi-pitch climbing.

I know nothing of the stump. must be one of the tasty new routes out there. What piece of rock is it on?

 

pics?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

It's on the rock outcropping a few hundred feet above the top of the Tree route. I don't know the name of it. Just head up starting right, then left (scramble the path of least resistance).

 

 

[telemarker]

Nice! Another cool link-up in that area is Mr.Tremendous (2p, 5.9, 5.10b). The 2nd pitch of Tremendous is indeed tremendous! Scramble up a couple hundred feet, and climb Hello Kitty (2p, 5.9+). Scramble up a couple hundred feet and spend the rest of your afternoon on upper 8 Mile Buttress. Awesome new routes up there!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Nice! Another cool link-up in that area is Mr.Tremendous (2p, 5.9, 5.10b). The 2nd pitch of Tremendous is indeed tremendous! Scramble up a couple hundred feet, and climb Hello Kitty (2p, 5.9+). Scramble up a couple hundred feet and spend the rest of your afternoon on upper 8 Mile Buttress. Awesome new routes up there!

 

Any cool 5.8 multipitch linkups - at 8 mile or elsewhere?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

catapult-canary on castle is awesome

 

Orbit (not a linkup, but great)

 

 

[RJRiha]

Any cool 5.8 multipitch linkups - at 8 mile or elsewhere?

 

Elsewhere:

How about the uber classic Fault/Catapult/Canary? Maybe throw the Bone in if you're feeling frisky.

[RJRiha]

catapult-canary on castle is awesome

 

Orbit (not a linkup, but great)

 

 

Wow...you beat me to it!

 

Catapult/South Face Jello Tower/Midway might even be better though. You get all the quality of the second pitch of Midway without the awkward chimney first pitch.....and it never gets harder than 5.8 (wink wink).

[TrogdortheBurninator]

both canary p1 and s. face jello are on the stiff side of 5.8, but both are awesome pitches.

 

you could probably link up some downhill routes with a trip up givlers (at least dog leg on alphabet)

[tanstaafl]

We climbed our way from the road up to Giveler's weekend before last and there are definitely a number of pitches between Alphabet Rock and Givler's that are 5.8ish, but I have no idea what they are named.

[telemarker]

I'd say Yard Art to top of peek-a-boo tower is an awesome 5.9 link-up