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Posted

Watmough head has some good routes. They are fairly well established and there are a few bolts and some old soft iron pins. New bolts and development is looked down on by the locals. most of the stuffis on the upper prtion of the south side. nice rock been climbers on it for many years.

 

Where you workin over there. I will be on Lopez most of the day Tommorow (tuesday)we may be able to get together for a few.

Posted

Thanks man! I generally work there fri-monday, so it sounds like a miss. But to recap there is no ban, just grumpy locals? Also looks like some fun bouldering around there as well with 1 or 2 potential "harder" problems. Also who can i talk to about developing?

Posted

Seriously, climbing in the San Juans? I'd love to check it out too. I grew up on SJ, but haven't been able to find anything besides a terribly chossy quarry. How many routes are there?

Posted

One of my first times climbing was top roping up at Watmough head. I really love the cove there too, great place to pull in for the night. I recall historically that the property was owned by a local then donated as a public land to the BLM. I think there is a sign at the parking lot that talks about the history. If you start developing up there I would love to here about it, I have always gone by there in a boat and wondered about the possibilities of routes along the head.

Posted

Sure thing. There has been a long list of stuff climbed there but no guides put out. All trad but then there was a few other bit put up that were not well received with local climbers. The entire head is now BLM mangaged land I can check but it is up for local mangament (or at least the locals are trying to get it :battlecage:). I have friday possibly available and then Sunday afternoon too. Check yur PMs and maybe we can hook up.

Posted
Sure thing. There has been a long list of stuff climbed there but no guides put out. All trad but then there was a few other bit put up that were not well received with local climbers. The entire head is now BLM mangaged land I can check but it is up for local mangament (or at least the locals are trying to get it :battlecage:). I have friday possibly available and then Sunday afternoon too. Check yur PMs and maybe we can hook up.

 

What kind of rock is it? Soft sandstone like the chuckanut drive formation (and sucia/patos)?

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
I heard there was limestone quarries in the area?

 

There are some old limestone quarries on San Juan, but none on Lopez that I know of. There's an old sandstone quarry on Waldron, but the rock there is too soft to climb.

 

I checked out Watmough last weekend. It looks like it has some potential, but would require some serious cleaning. I think it would require some negotiations & planning to get approval from the local BLM steward to put up routes.

 

Isaac & Co has done some pretty cool bouldering problems on the beach.

  • 9 years later...
Posted
On 5/14/2010 at 8:54 AM, boadman said:

Isaac & Co has done some pretty cool bouldering problems on the beach.

Does anybody have information on this, or know how to contact "Isaac & Co"? I live near Watmough and I'm going to be repeating their lines. Would love to know names and grades if they have documented anything.

Also, please hit me up if you want to boulder on Lopez! There's not much but I'm going to do it because I'm here. Could use more pads and spotters and psych as always.

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