La Sportiva Exums

[Peter McCorkell]

I'm looking for a shoe that I can use for scrambling and also approaches in the PNW. One that would be comfy for a little jogging on the approaches would be good too.

 

Anybody have any recommendations? I've heard the La Sportiva Exum Pros are pretty sweet and I've been very satisfied with all other La Sportiva products.

http://sportiva.com/products/prod/519

Does anybody have any experience with them?

 

Thanks so much!

[Maxtrax]

I haven't used the Pro's yet but I'm on my third pair of their precursor the Exum Ridge and they are by far my favorite approach shoe. Comfy enough for 15+ mile days (with my orthotics in them) and they climb great, I use them on alpine stuff up to 5.9. There are other shoes that climb or hike better but for me nothing else has the balance between those two aspects as dialed as the Exums.

[spotly]

I have lots of miles on the Exum Ridges as well. Great shoes but they need a stiff insole if you plan on an 18 mile day on rocky terrain. The heel gives great traction on the loose stuff too. Mine are wore out and I have a peep that was going to try to put some dot-rubber on for me...but I like these new ones - the color isn't quite so ugly as mine Maybe time for an upgrade.

[layton]

The non-pros blow out very quickly. I'd get a trail running shoe meant for trail running or an approach shoe meant for climbing - not both. Both would be a weak running shoe that will blow out in <6 months.

[DPS]

I do quite a bit of trail running as well as climbing and have used both dedicated trail running shoes and dedicated approach shoes for climbing.

 

My .02 cents:

 

-I agree with Dr. Layton.

 

-The approach shoes I have owned are not very good for running, including an older pair of LS Exums.

 

-The trail running shoes I have owned are not especially good for climbing.

 

-I have put in some pretty rugged and long trail runs in trail running shoes and never had sore feet or knees. Doing a relatively benign approach (I am specifically remembering doing Prusik car-to-car via Snow Lakes trail) in trail running shoes beat the hell out my feet. I am guessing the shoes did not have enough support for the added weight of the pack? I know it was not the terrain because I ran the Enchantment Lakes loop with no pain in the same pair of shoes. I have also done some long climbs carrying a relatively heavy pack wearing approach shoes and had no problem with my feet.

 

-I have owned several pairs of approach shoes: a pair of One Sports circa 1997, a pair of LS Boulders circa 2000, a pair of LS Exums circa 2005, and currently a pair of Patagonias. The LS Boulders by far climbed the best but both pairs of LS's were the least comfortable shoes wile walking due to the narrow toe and my wide foot. The Patagonias are the least geeky looking but the rubber is not very sticky. One Sport is now Montrail and they make some nice looking approach shoes but I have not used them. Montrail trail running shoes are my current favorite for trail running.

Edited April 2, 2010 by danielpatricksmith

[Peter McCorkell]

Cool guys! Thanks so much for the input!