Mt Hood - South Side/Hogsback

[NEKiwi]

I'm going to be in Portland in a few weeks time and am considering climbing Hood with a mate of mine. We've both done a bit of mountaineering but neither of us have been on Hood.

 

We're looking for a relatively non-technical climb, which from the sounds of things might be Hogsback. From what we've been reading it looks to be in and decent this year. I seem to remember seeing that the Pearly Gates are real icy. What's the best alternative route to the summit from here? I've seen a couple of mentions of the Old Chute - is this way off to the left as you come across the Hogsback?

 

Additionally, does anyone know of a trip report that documents the climb with photos of the landmarks?

 

Thanks all!

HT

[Displaced Native]

Assuming weather and avy conditions are within your comfort range, there will be a well established boot pack trail up the hogsback, then continuing up to the left will be the Mazama's route and such. Cruise around the trip report link on this website and you'll find plenty of info

 

Steve

[NEKiwi]

Great to hear. Sounds like it's well traveled, so route finding shouldn't be too much of a difficultly. Thanks for the info Steve.

 

Cheers

HT

[offroadfanatic]

Hogsback is the right. If you follow that up and to the right you'll come to Pearly Gates.

Everyone on the left there is heading up the Old Mazamas Chute.

Which is a non-technical route.

 

The first coloiur after cutting left from the Hogsback is 2'O Clock Coloiur.

 

[NEKiwi]

Awesome, cheers for the pic and description, certainly helps with getting the bearings.

 

HT

[billbob]

Kiwi Dood - Go up to the Hogsback, ca. 10,500' elev. Descend boot track down the other side, below the Hot Rocks fumarole area. Face right and rope up, ascend the 700' slope up to the summit ridge. Be advised the far (north) side of the ridge may have a large cornice in winter. Face right (east) and climb the modest knife-edge summit ridge to the east until reaching the highest point in Oregon, over 2 miles in altitude. Enjoy! Then get your ass back down to the Hogsback before the sun reaches the upper slopes. Climbers get nailed by hard ice below the summit ridge all the time, sometimes with serious results. Minimize objective hazards by getting up there early and back down promptly. Better bring at least an extra ice tool if heading up the Pearly Gates and be prepared for 30' - 50' of steep ice :-) If you see anything like the photo below you may want to head down in a hurry.

Chad Anderson photo

[Joe_Poulton]

Chad Anderson photo

 

Awesome photo!

[NEKiwi]

billbob,

 

Thanks for the advice. Had a great day up there today, will post TR when have photos.

 

Thanks again all!

 

HT

[jjwagner]

NEKiwi, I would like to hear what the current conditions are like. I am thinking of driving up there in a week from here in Chico, CA. With a friend. We summited Mt. Shasta together last summer.

 

If anyone on here has summited Shasta and Hood, I'd like to hear how Hood rates in comparison of difficulty of climb to Shasta.

 

Thank you for providing this forum.

 

All best,

J

Edited March 20, 2010 by jjwagner

[OffTheSteppe]

I have summited both Hood and Shasta by their standard routs and Shasta is harder because the climb is a greater vertical gain and also several thousand feet higher in elevation. My first attempt on Shasta was a bonzai from Portland (sea level) to the summit (14,000+) without a night at Lake Helen, which most climbers take. Two of our party of five summitted and us other three pooped out just above the red banks (altitude).

 

The second attempt at Shasta was a breeze because we spent a full night at Lake Helen and the next day was an easy finish.

 

Hood is a one day climb possibly similar to the first day on Shasta so generally easier, though maybe weather is worse on Hood.

[jjwagner]

Thank you for your response.

 

Did you rope-up on Hood?

 

When you say a one day climb, is this with a start at the standard trailhead, which I believe begins at 5000 ft or so? I read somewhere about a kind of ski lift, which takes one up higher, to 8500 ft, but this doesn't interest me. I am wondering, though, at which elevation you began.

 

Best,

James

[Water]

no rope up for southside on hood.

you start at timberline parkinglot, 6000ft.

the lifts, if running, generally do not start early enough to be of any use to a climber.

you can take a snowcat to 8500 if you want to pay for it.

 

 

[NEKiwi]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Just put up TR here.

 

Best

HT