[TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 12/27/2009

[bonathanjarrett]

Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper

 

Date: 12/27/2009

 

Trip Report:

Taking advantage of the low avy conditions this weekend, my climbing partner and I climbed The Zipper on Lane Peak. We found nearly perfect conditions on the route, with firm snow for cramponing and bluebird skies. We also had the route and seemingly the entire Tatoosh Range to ourselves.

Relatively low snow in the gulley meant that there was a short fun alpine ice step midway up the route.

About 20 meters below the col, there is a gulley that leaves the main route and heads right. We didn't go that way, but it looked tempting with short sections of alpine ice before (presumably) heading out onto the north face. Anyone had experience with this variation?

We took the "direct" route up from the col, heading straight up steep slopes. At the top, we were able to place relatively good rock gear and climb a short rock band to get onto the knife ridge. This was the best part of the climb by far with great exposure on either side and fantastic position.

 

 

As one might expect, the summit views were sublime.

 

We descended down around the backside, occasionally postholing on the south side. Dropping down between Lane and Denman required one bushy rappel that might have been avoidable with more snow. However, there were several rap slings on the way down, so perhaps it is normal to rap the couple of steep steps. Dunno.

 

On the way out we pondered the route potential on the north facing buttress of Denman. Has anyone done this? It looked doable right now with some thin parts up high. I suspect it be about WI 3+ and be a couple/three pitches depending how you pitch it out.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Several short screws (unnecessary on the route)

Small rock rack (useful if climbing the "direct" line mentioned above)

Picket (placed only to warrant carrying it)

 

Approach Notes:

Slowshoes currently unnecessary.

[Le Piston]

Nice work! I was wondering if the Zip might be in shape. Thanks for the TR and great pictures.

[Pilchuck71]

Looks fun.

The pics are really cool.

Cheers.

[lazyalpinist]

How did Lover's Lane look?

[bonathanjarrett]

Enough snow to make it worth an attempt.

[mountainsloth]

looks like my kind of route! sweetness!

[pope]

Great route, nice report. Regarding the ice on Denman...I once encountered some drunk guys camped at the base who claimed they had climbed it. He also claimed to have pitched off near the top of the Zipper, resulting in a fall all the way to the base. Without injury. Could have been the beer talking.