[TR] Mt. Hood - Reid and Leuthold 12/5/2009

[Major Major]

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid and Leuthold

 

Date: 12/5/2009

 

Trip Report:

We started around 2:00 a.m. and reached the top of Palmer before sunrise. My partner, Ryan, was cold so I dug small snow cave and we sat waiting for the weather to clear. To some surprise, the sunrise offered clear skies with decent wind conditions (15 mph sustained, and up to 40 mph gusts). It was cold but very ideal for a Reid climb, or any climb. On the top of Palmer, my climbing partner and I met up with two other climbers (Matt and Scott) going via the same route. We all decided to team up and enjoy the company, which definitely made things interesting.

 

After crossing I-rock ridge, there is a semi-steep, traverse that requires a straight shaft ice axe for potential self arrest. I could see the crevasses on Reid Glacier at the bottom. After reaching the bottom of the Reid headwall, the next challenge is to find the best route. It was my intention to climb straight up the Reid headwall, but my partner convinced me to carry on toward what is either the left side of Reid or the right side of Leuthold. I know for a fact that we didn't ascend via Leuthold proper, since this is merely a straightforward slog up a friendly, 50 degree couloir. The route we chose was a bit less friendly but fun. It required an ice axe and at times a second tool. My partner became fatiqued early on the headwall, so I tied his back pack to my body while carrying my own backpack to give him a rest for about 1,000 feet. He was definitely reaching his limit. I convinced myself at this point that it would be easier to ascend than to turn back. He looked in a very bad way. After climbing the crux (a 30-40 foot ice run), I was a bit fatigued. But thanks to Scott and his just-in-time rappel, everything turned out well. From here on out I was very tired, but not more than one would feel after having dragged an extra 35 pound bag up snow and ice. Anway, after the ice crux, we came to an impasse on Reid. It quickly became evident that our continuation of this route would result in getting lost and, thus, a forced down climb, which I do not favor. So, we traversed left until we reached the very obvious top of Leuthold couloir. My partner carried his bag the rest of the way up to the summit, and I continued with extreme fatigue due to carrying his bag. The blue-sky summit was intermittently decorated with vertical oriented clouds and the warmth of sun. After this, we descended via the Old Chute with fresh tracks. Everything went without a hitch until my crampon fell off and I tripped and tore an ankle ligament. A half mile later, I felt (and maybe heard) the ligament literally snap. Matt ran down to Timberline and retrieved a Snowcat to take me off Palmer (thanks Matt). I was unable to walk and had to wear a cast for two weeks. Other than this silly incident, it was a very memorable climb. Watch out for the ice on Reid; it requires one or possibly two ice tools, a rope, and good judgment.

 

Note: this is the first time I watched the sun set twice in one moment. It set in the clouds; the clouds departed, and it set again. Incredible day.

 

This is descending near Crater Rock.

 

Here's me stopping for a break before the crux (self portrait, ice tool in hand).

 

Gear Notes:

Cold weather equipment:

Bivy

Sleeping bag

Foam pad

Second down coat

extra pair of mittens

Wool sweater

 

Two liters water

Ice axe

Ice tool

30 meter rope

Snow pickets (didn't use)

GPS (activated in case of white out)

Crampons

Sunglasses

All the other acoutrements one would expect for a fun winter climb.

 

Approach Notes:

Although labeled a Class II climb, Reid definitely exhibited Class III characteristics. Just a note to those who might assume this is just an 'easy' climb. I think it changes to a Class II climb as more snow builds up over the ice during the winter. Leuthold, however, is very obviously just a steep Couloir.

 

More photos: Reid Headwall and summit view.

 

Edited December 25, 2009 by Major Major

[rocky_joe]

Glad to hear you're alright. Did you guys not find the avi conditions to be too bad?

[Major Major]

Avi risk was almost zero. There were some icy sections covered with 3-9 inches of snow slab, but most of this was limited to small sections.

[ivan]

jeebus - please don't get killed on hood, whydontcha? it makes the tourons all antzy

[Ryan Canfield]

I clicked on this trip report and didnt realize that this was our trip report. I saw that picture and i was like... hmmm Major Major sounds reallllllly familiar, and hey - thats the same rope as mine... then it clicked. LOL

 

But cool you wrote up the trip report. Thanks! - I'm not home right now but when i am in a few days i'll send you over the pictures i got of you. I forgot to do that earlier haha.

 

Hope your ankle is getting better and that you're having a good holiday.

 

-Ryan

Edited December 25, 2009 by Ryan Canfield

[Khartoum Wood]

cool trip report and pics wish i was there

[Lafayette]

nice