alpine rack, pins?

[keenwesh]

what pitons will be best suited to climbing alpine ice routes in WA? I'm thinking triple couliors, stuart glacier coulior, snoqualmie pass climbs. bugaboos? knifeblades? small angles?

[dberdinka]

correct. short ones. 1 each of #1, #2, #3 and #5 should suffice for everything. Or just a #2 and a #5. LAs can be nice too. I like the #5. Bring a baby angle too. There, 4 pins that should pretty much have you covered.

[keenwesh]

is a baby angle the same as a sawed off angle?

sorry, I'm a total noob when it comes to pitons... or archaic forms of rock pro in general.

[keenwesh]

so, you suggest a 2 and 5 bugaboo and a 5 lost arrow, and a small angle thrown in for fun?

[Don_Serl]

i reckon the universal alpine pin rack is 1 thin blade, 1 long thin bugaboo, one each #5 and #6 lost arrows, a baby angle, and a mid-sized long leeper (i guess no longer available). you only really need pegs for thin stuff, since bigger cracks protect well with nuts and/or cams.

if pressed, just take a couple lost arrows (thinner is better, so #5 is a bit preferable to #6) - they'll go in almost anywhere, and they're strong enuf when well-placed to rap off with confidence - i've gone thru a LOT of 'em over the years.

cheers,

[G-spotter]

is a baby angle the same as a sawed off angle?

sorry, I'm a total noob when it comes to pitons... or archaic forms of rock pro in general.

 

a baby angle is the shortest and narrowest angle pin and protects narrow cracks

 

a sawed off is a larger angle that has the tip cut off so as to be nailed into a wide, shallow pocket. not very strong and not much use except on blown out aid routes.