keenwesh Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 what pitons will be best suited to climbing alpine ice routes in WA? I'm thinking triple couliors, stuart glacier coulior, snoqualmie pass climbs. bugaboos? knifeblades? small angles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 correct. short ones. 1 each of #1, #2, #3 and #5 should suffice for everything. Or just a #2 and a #5. LAs can be nice too. I like the #5. Bring a baby angle too. There, 4 pins that should pretty much have you covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 is a baby angle the same as a sawed off angle? sorry, I'm a total noob when it comes to pitons... or archaic forms of rock pro in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 so, you suggest a 2 and 5 bugaboo and a 5 lost arrow, and a small angle thrown in for fun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 i reckon the universal alpine pin rack is 1 thin blade, 1 long thin bugaboo, one each #5 and #6 lost arrows, a baby angle, and a mid-sized long leeper (i guess no longer available). you only really need pegs for thin stuff, since bigger cracks protect well with nuts and/or cams. if pressed, just take a couple lost arrows (thinner is better, so #5 is a bit preferable to #6) - they'll go in almost anywhere, and they're strong enuf when well-placed to rap off with confidence - i've gone thru a LOT of 'em over the years. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 is a baby angle the same as a sawed off angle? sorry, I'm a total noob when it comes to pitons... or archaic forms of rock pro in general. a baby angle is the shortest and narrowest angle pin and protects narrow cracks a sawed off is a larger angle that has the tip cut off so as to be nailed into a wide, shallow pocket. not very strong and not much use except on blown out aid routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.