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Posted (edited)

I have a friend coming in a few weeks from the east coast and wants to get some climbing in. I am considering the following routes:

 

Mesachie Peak Icefall Couloir

Maude Entiat Glacier

Eldorado NE Face (first choice if the road is open)

 

Can anyone comment on the quality of Mescahie or Maude routes? Can anyone suggest other routes? Will they be in late October?

 

TIA,

 

Dan

 

Edited by danielpatricksmith
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Posted

I think the big faces on the valcanos are pretty fun this time of year. I climbed the Coleman during a dry November it was all ice from bottom to top.

 

Also, I've heard that the N Face of Shuksan can be spicy and fun this time of year.

Posted

I was on the NF of shuksan about a month ago. lots of rockfall then, but i bet since the temps have dropped and there's been some snow that the rockfall will not be as much of an issue. the ice will be discontinuous. The Satan's Sidewalk route (search TRs here) might be forming soon too...

 

The Pencil Thin Roman Mustache on Baker might be coming in soon. Don't forget about Colfax's Cosley-Houston either.

 

The Elliot HW on Hood is supposed to be good this time of year and the road just reopened. I bet the north side of Adams (lava HW, Stormy Monday Couloir, etc) would be fun and interesting.

 

Posted

Hey Dan,

Aaron and I did Mesahchie last fall around the same time

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=845279

 

The route was in great condition and a lot of mixed fun - nice chossy sidehilling, easy minor glacier travel, some easy ice climbing through the ice fall, enjoyable moderate couloir, and then from then on almost continuous snow on all the gullies that you get into, with interspersed rock steps. Great route and I doubt you'll see anyone near the area. And good on ya for showing an outsider something other than the volcanoes. Tired of hearing "Rainier this", "Baker that...", "I wanna climb Hood by any route, don't care..."... sigh.

 

 

If you do go take some pics of the 'beard's NF, eh? ;)

Posted

Thanks Doug,

 

My interest in doing something other than volcanoes is partially selfish as I want to do something I haven't climbed before.

 

Dan

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