pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 lets just say ur right.... what route would u consider that chimney to be part off...? or do we just call it "a way off upper grassy ledges". that's a pretty wordy title but if that's what it is called " a way off grassy ledges" i like it. Quote
pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 i suppose it's better than naming a route menopause... Quote
pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 i just looked at the olson guide 1st edition (blew the dust off of it) and it says that flying swallow exits on that chimney or u can be a wussy and rap. Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 Well, there you go, not being much of a fan of guidebooks I tend to just look at lines my own way. Why wouldn't the chimney be the way up off of 'Iron Maiden' which tops out at essentially the same place as Flying Swallow or any other route that tops out on upper grassy ledges. Â Well, we'd have to see how many times old men like you paused leading the route to know how well it's named. So far Shane and I are the only ones who've led it to date. Quote
pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009  i'm sure it's aptly named joseph and it is what it is "a route".... i'm just giving u shit  well iron maiden was put up in 85 and flying swallow was put up in 65.... I THINK I'M GETTING A CLUE!?!?!?!?!  i don't care what it's called it goes over that stupid towel, and i was playing "the hardy boys" and u fucked it all up.  oh yeh, the guide book displays (pg. 108) that "flying swallow" (#98) starts on dod's and end's on dod's. feel sorry for that bastard chimney.... the "bastard chimney", i like it.... ...  wonder what kim and dean would say about route #98 on page 108?  but ur right, it's not like peeps go all the way up there just to climb "bastard chimney"        but gotta say that i had fun the few times i did go that way and that stupid TOWEL was not there... Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 I've done that traverse from Dod's to F.S. - it's got to be one of the most ridiculously stupid things I've ever done on rock. Directissimo, baby (but that wasn't in the cards bitd)... Â Talked with Dean last week, but back when we did talk about FS he didn't have much to say about it other than he could still remember which bolt he put in the first anchor and which one Kim put in. Also talked with Kim about two months ago, he didn't remember much about the routes so much, but rather more about Dod & co. hijinx and how climbing evolved for him and Dean once Dean got back from his first trip to the Valley. Quote
pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 what should we call the traverse joseph? u can name this one if u want... maybe another bird name or perhaps another british rock band would be cool... Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 Hey, I even didn't name Menopause let alone name that traverse. And I've got to admit to not being much into names or ratings at this point. Quote
pink Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) Flying Swallow is down and right. That appears to be a bag hanging a bit below Dods and above and between Flightime and Flying Circus.  Edited September 23, 2009 by pink Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 23, 2009 Author Posted September 23, 2009 Well after its named and climbed again maybe you could get that towel when you are headed up, huh joe? Quote
kevbone Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 Well, there you go, not being much of a fan of guidebooks  Except when they give stars where there should not be and you go and add a bolt. Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 The only reason I know those names or own the guidebook was so I'd be able to talk to Opdycke when I was replacing the anchors and when I've been cleaning out the columns lines (like the two weeks of trips it took to reclaim Flying Circus). And when I say "not being much into names or ratings at this point", I mean I wouldn't bother naming and certainly not rating a line I put up. Particularly the ratings, I've gotten to where I really couldn't care less, partially because I suck as bad at figuring out ratings as I do at guessing people's ages. Â Kevin, which part of why I added the bolt didn't you get? Yeah, if there was no guidebook there would be no problem with non-locals getting sucked a decking situation on RR. For a guy that wants to add bolt to YW p2 for your own use I'm not sure what your point is. Â I've never been into guidebooks because all of them contain the info you can figure out for yourself and none of the history which you can't. That and pretty much every line the crew I came up with touched was an FA due to the fact climbing didn't hit SoIll until John Gill came through on a cross-country trip in the 60's. And guidebooks, like chalk, are just another addiction and most folks get dependent on them and never develop the ability to walk up and be able to accurately map their abilities to a line (existing or new) by sight. For me the whole point of going to a new area is to walk up and pretend it's never been climbed, eyeball it, and get on whatever catches my eye - the last thing I want to know is what's been climbed or how hard things are. I do like looking at them after I'm done climbing to see how what I thought about the lines compared to the what the locals thought. Â I don't know whether the line left of the towel I was referring to has been TR'd or led before. It looks like takes pro so I'm guessing it wouldn't have been one of the unbolted TRs pink was referring to, but you never know. Quote
Off_White Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 i know what it is? OMG...OMG...OMG...OMG!!!!!! Â The Nodder? OMG! Quote
kevbone Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 The only reason I know those names or own the guidebook was so I'd be able to talk to Opdycke when I was replacing the anchors and when I've been cleaning out the columns lines (like the two weeks of trips it took to reclaim Flying Circus). And when I say "not being much into names or ratings at this point", I mean I wouldn't bother naming and certainly not rating a line I put up. Particularly the ratings, I've gotten to where I really couldn't care less, partially because I suck as bad at figuring out ratings as I do at guessing people's ages. Kevin, which part of why I added the bolt didn't you get? Yeah, if there was no guidebook there would be no problem with non-locals getting sucked a decking situation on RR. For a guy that wants to add bolt to YW p2 for your own use I'm not sure what your point is.  I've never been into guidebooks because all of them contain the info you can figure out for yourself and none of the history which you can't. That and pretty much every line the crew I came up with touched was an FA due to the fact climbing didn't hit SoIll until John Gill came through on a cross-country trip in the 60's. And guidebooks, like chalk, are just another addiction and most folks get dependent on them and never develop the ability to walk up and be able to accurately map their abilities to a line (existing or new) by sight. For me the whole point of going to a new area is to walk up and pretend it's never been climbed, eyeball it, and get on whatever catches my eye - the last thing I want to know is what's been climbed or how hard things are. I do like looking at them after I'm done climbing to see how what I thought about the lines compared to the what the locals thought.  I don't know whether the line left of the towel I was referring to has been TR'd or led before. It looks like takes pro so I'm guessing it wouldn't have been one of the unbolted TRs pink was referring to, but you never know.   Calm down brother. I am only poking fun....  Keep in mind I have advocated for a bolt on YW where IMO it should have been placed. And to take out the other bolts. Less bolts is better in that area.  Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 23, 2009 Author Posted September 23, 2009 because I suck as bad at figuring out ratings as I do at guessing people's ages. Â Ok, Joe, lets test ya here... how old is kevin? Quote
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