A nonbolting thesis

[billcoe]

Yeah, the Rat collective.

 

Good call, hope they take it to heart and camo. I've never been there and will confess I have no desire but expect I'll get tractor beamed in some rainy soggy weekend on an Ivan/Geoff aider dog fest at some point.

 

 

 

With you on the boltless hole thing. Don't do it near protectable rock and if you're going to put a hole in the rock then might as well put something solid and camo'd in it.

 

I'm so so so so so glad that guy didn't put real bolts there. I was already shocked enough he was drilling and claiming there was no pro available without the hole/Removable Bolt combo platter where noobs can routinely get acceptable gear every 3 feet the entire way for aid practice. The holes are very unobtrusive though, bolts would have been ugly, unnecessary and one more place for your knee to slam into.

[JosephH]

If he had put the bolts in it likely would have been clearer they were unecessary, but it sounds like a dab or two of epoxy would fix it either way.

[Checat]

This bolted crack has otherwise available pro. Fill em. "Practice"? If you wanna climb walls go climb walls. If you wanna climb a crack thats been led without any bolts, lead it on gear or don't climb it, climb something else.

 

I thought Rat cave was nothing but steep sport climbs? didn't realize there were crack lines, go figure.

 

Oh yeah, and another note on what was earlier brushed on in regard to holes for removable bolts/unsustainable bolts on the beach: Does anyone actively climb those rust-fest bolted lines up the larger formations at Bandon Beach Bouldering/Needles?

 

From what I understand the Access Fund is pretty Madrone focused, but it really does present an eyesore and it didn't seem like the lines were active, (*the bouldering is better).

 

Other than at one place in particular I'm not really ready for the chopchopchop but it seems like if climbers aren't really using them, theres no reason for them to continue and stain the rock that they're on.

 

I would bring this to that retro-bolt suggestion/neccesary thread but I don't think people care much about these climbs and wouldn't really deserve more time/financial commitment?

 

I'm not trying to spray about the area (head south to LR, Cali to take the quantity up), but noticed that it was an extremely active beach and its not the best thing to bring climbers a bad name in one of the very few coastal Oregon areas.

 

thoughts?

Edited August 17, 2009 by Checat

[billcoe]

2 different areas, routes and conversations Checat. They were both about bolts though:-)

 

 

[Checat]

I know, I'm trying to shake off this zero bolts MO. I do climb at other areas; the area I really give a crap about happens to be no bolts is all.

[billcoe]

Yeah, saw you get needlessly flamed for it too. Bet it kicks ass...keep it secret from the dark side I would....

 

 

[Checat]

Maybe I'm just whistling dixie, but I actually have faith that other areas that are discovered and rediscovered over the next ten years will have developers more conscious of quality bolt usage, and bolt omision when the potential is there. How that new awareness comes about is beyond me though.

[JosephH]

As a atheist who's 'born again' every day, that's just way more faith than I can muster.

[billcoe]

LOL!

 

Maybe start by not saying "Developer" Checat, substitute the word "Climber". Realistically though, that is highly area dependent, there are some amazing lines in places, I'll use Smith as an example, which could not be climbed with out bolts. For me, I'd rather climb the cracks and gear routes when I go there, but understand wanting to soar up some of the faces as others do so capably.