mvs Posted July 13, 2009 Posted July 13, 2009 Trip: The Eastern Alps - Karwendel, Ortler, Wetterstein, Dolomites Date: 7/13/2009 Trip Report: A samplin' of what I've been doing in the Alps for folks coming over and wanting to know some good routes to climb: [img:left]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3642/3482764444_ac57101a88_b.jpg[/img] In the spring a classic 5.10 12 pitch route called the Auckenthaler Crack on the Martinswand about 10 minutes drive out of Innsbruck. This rock is amazing, covered in sport routes, trad routes, even an overhanging via-ferrata. The route had nice finger, hand and off-width crack climbing. It is completely bolt protected which kind of sucks, depending on your point of view. On June 1st, me and a friend got to climb the Ortler North Face, which is more than 1200 meters of 50 to 70 degree snow and ice. I climbed a route on this mountain two years ago, and that was beautiful (the Hintergrat). This one really takes the cake though. We climbed the lower half unroped, then pitched out most of the rest which really took time. But the ice was amazing, and the experience of being in the middle of such a huge wall is something I'll never forget. Ultimately, a 22 hour day, which satisfied my need for a Cascades-style day. This climb is getting out of season now, but will be back in for October. Despite a really cold June, we got out to climb the Schüsselkarspitze Southeast Face "Peters/Haringer" route (5.10, 12 pitches). What a great day. We had the whole wall to ourselves. This wall is covered in climbs of all difficulty. This climb was almost completely crack climbing and really delivered. We just had to contend with some wetness that gave me an excuse to turn a 5.10b lieback pitch into an awkward A1 freak-fest. This climb is a mix of bolts and gear. Finally off to the Dolomites, and climbed the 3rd Sella Tower "Vinatzer" route (5.9, 10 pitches) with friends. Amazing exposure. Nice mix of pitons and gear placements for protection. Cracks, chimneys and overhangs...excellent rock. A super day. Followed by... The climb below me, Torre Firenze, a mellow 12 pitch 5.6 where the surroundings and good company become more important than exacting moves. Great hike down that includes a hut with beer supplies. And I'll end with last weekends excitement, the Costantini/Gherdina Route on the Tofana di Rozes (5.9, 12 pitches). The Tofana dominates the country around the Cortina Dolomites, and has several long exacting climbs. This one is an old classic and justifiably so. The pitches around the mid-height 5.9 traverse quicken the pulse. The traverse itself will make your eyeballs bleed with exposure . Finish with a long routefinding challenge on 4th class, loose terrain. But an easy walk off on trail as your reward. A mix of pitons and gear. So come on down if you like such things. Here's mud in yer eye! Gear Notes: New bolts in the north, old pitons in the south. Seems there is a bolting controversy here too. On Tofana we saw chopped bolts at each belay station. Respect for history seems to be strong. The only climb that felt "crowded" was Tofana, and that was just because the guys behind us were tension-injecting lamers. The guys in front of us were a little slower than we might be but they were so nice we just enjoyed their company. Approach Notes: Lessee...1.5 hours from Munich, 3 hours from Munich, 2 hours from Munich, 3 hours from Munich and 4 hours from Munich. The only one that wasn't a day trip was the Ortler, with a hut stay the night before. For the rock climbs, the only approach greater than 1 hour was the Schüsselkarspitze which had a 2.5 hour approach. Quote
olyclimber Posted July 14, 2009 Posted July 14, 2009 wow! beautiful pictures! how long are you there? Quote
mvs Posted July 15, 2009 Author Posted July 15, 2009 Thanks John! Hey, you could do some amazing "day trips" out this way... Quote
jmace Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 Awesome Mike!!!! I have been following your adventures on Flickr and you have some stellar routes done this year!! I am so in love with them hills, I wish so bad I was there this year but alas the Olympics have got in the way. But I am planning on coming for a few months next summer, just 170 plus days till these games are over and I will be freeeeee Stoked to check out the Tofana Keep the pics coming!! Quote
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