fenderfour Posted July 13, 2009 Posted July 13, 2009 Trip: Darrington, 3 O'Clock Rock - Silent Running 5.9+./5.10b Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: Counterfeitfake and I went to D-town for some climbing. We brought along a couple of "n00bs". "n00bs" is in quotes because this is only their second season climbing and these guys are sending 5.10 on gear. Bastards. Since this is supposed to be an alpine climbing class, our first objective was the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. The forecast of rain and thunderstorms pushed us toward a less committing objective; one that might lead to something more than a hike to a wet bivy site and a hike out. None of us had done much climbing in Darrington, so it was on. The approach to Silent Running is cake. Park at the 8 Mile Creek TH and walk about 20 minutes to the start of the climb. It was hot as balls on Saturday. CFF discussed different terms for the swampy condition that is created in man's crotch as he is hiking on a day like that. The obvious "swamp balls" was thrown out, as well as "bog crotch" and "the fen". Eventually talk switched to "duck butter" which is something I've never experienced and I hope I never will. Silent Running is a 6 pitch 5.9+ or a 7 pitch 5.10b. P1: pretty easy and a little run out. If you work for it, you can find a small nut placement or two to ease the length between bolts. P2: Like P1, but with more features. P3: the first "crux" of the route. Yes, this is where you go up to the bolt. Yes, I know there aren't any holds, its' called "friction". Keep moving and don't be skerred. It's going to be ok. It's well protected through the hard bits. P4. run out 5.8 climbing with some gear to ease the run out again. P5: less run out 5.8 climbing I don't remember any available gear placements, or wanting any. P6: the second "crux". Again, it's very well protected, just keep moving and have fun. P7: the bonus 5.10b pitch. If you survived the lower pitches, you need to do this one too. The steps look intimidating, but they are all bolted just before you make the step. There are a lot more bolts than shown on the topo. Do bring some gear. I placed a couple of nuts and a #2 cam on this pitch, and I was happy to have them. Sorry I don't have any pics. I left my camera at home. As a side note - the road into Dreamer is a bit rough. We stopped not too far from the 8 Mile Creek TH. A new-ish wash would be rough to get over with my little Subaru. Trucks can still get back to the big log. We parked back at the TH and walked in. It took about 15 minutes to get to the log. Save your paint job and walk in. The trail is also getting pretty rough. The road bed is rather overgrown. A few hours with a machete will clear it out. Just short of the first boulder field, a large slide has covered the trail with deadfall. Don't fret the trail is still there. Climb up/over/through for abbot 30 yards and find the trail again. Once we could see the sky again, it was clear that heavy rain was coming soon. We checked out a little more of the approach and left as it started to rain. Gear Notes: 12 draws, small rack to #2. The gear isn't necessary for the first 6 pitches, but it does reduce the runouts on the easier sections. Gear is needed for pitch #7. Approach Notes: Follow the trail for 20 minutes. Climb Quote
counterfeitfake Posted July 13, 2009 Posted July 13, 2009 Silent Running is a very fun route! It is really cool to feel yourself getting more and more comfortable trusting your feet on friction. Nick placed a #3 on the last pitch, but it could have been mostly to prove that he could. Does anyone know why the climb doesn't keep going past the bonus pitch? Just curious, it seemed like it would be short to get to the top. Now I want to check out Total Soul. Anyone know how it compares? Quote
mattp Posted July 13, 2009 Posted July 13, 2009 Total Soul has more variety to it and is overall a better though slightly harder route and has a messy start. It DOES top out, and onto flat ground where you can take your shoes off and relax, so you'll like that about it. Silent Running does not "top out" because we looked up there and saw a mossy slab disappearing into steep woods and saw no reason to go up there. You're right: it wouldn't be hard, though. Quote
counterfeitfake Posted July 14, 2009 Posted July 14, 2009 Does the 5.10- on TS compare closely with the bonus pitch on SR? How is that 5.11a Superfly pitch, is it straight-up friction? I'd doubt my ability to pull friction moves that are that hard... Quote
jshamster Posted July 14, 2009 Posted July 14, 2009 The Superfly pitch is a friction crux, but there are bolts in your face and it is pretty short. First time I did it I fell maybe two feet, figured out the sequence, and sent. Not too bad. Much more fun way to go than Antifly IMO. Sorry, can't really remember the .10 comparisons to SR. Cheers. Jimbo Quote
tradhead Posted July 15, 2009 Posted July 15, 2009 Whatever you do - don't continue past the top of Silent Running. Did that last year trying to "summit" and enountered thickening vegatation and disappearing rock. Eventually we reached a flat spot after a few pitches and called it a day. My same climbing partner and I had quite the laugh when we looked over at 3 O'Clock later in the year from the top of Exfoliation Dome. It was obvious from that vantage why the route stopped where it did as the "top" is nothing but a junction with a treed ridge that was nowhere near the summit! Quote
mattp Posted July 15, 2009 Posted July 15, 2009 I think the Superfly crux is significantly harder than the bonus pitch on Silent Running. The bolt is nearby but not as close as it could be. You will likely fall more than two feet if you peel but it is a pendulum type fall so you can backstep and avoid any sliding or scrape. Quote
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