[TR] South Early Winter Spire - South Arete 7/11/2009

[mattp]

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - South Arete

 

Date: 7/11/2009

 

Trip Report:

On Saturday I climbed South Early Winter Spire with Fred Beckey and friends.

 

I had come prepared to serve as guide and there was plenty of that as one member of our party was relatively inexperienced but Fred, ever the master, did his share. I bet it has been some years since he’s been on this peak but he knew it well: as I started up the first pitch he offered “you won’t need that #3” and just as I started eying a crack heading up and right he asked: “Can you step back left?” (I found the #3 very useful but he was absolutely right about the move back left: one friction move and pitch 1 was dealt with via a variant that allowed me to set a perfect belay for my two ropemates).

 

Fred took over the lead higher up on the route and, even if the climbing on this - the easiest route at the pass- wasn’t at all difficult, he showed his experience and care for his companions. Soon enough we were up at the summit and Fred was telling stories of his 1942 climb of the route with his brother Helmy to two other climbers who had come up another route. We soaked in some of the best views a climber can have around here and headed down.

 

The descent went really well and, again, I was very impressed with Mr. Beckey. Fred was competent down-climbing awkward blocks and sandy slabs, and on the lookout for trouble as he pulled rappel ropes that could easily bring a loose rock with them or get snagged on a flake or tree.

 

I’ve done several trips with Fred in recent years and this was one of the best. The South Arete rocks!

 

Fred belays Megan across the "whaleback" high on South Early Winter Spire.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Whatever you bring will be adequate. The route has a couple of tricky spots, very short in duration, where gear in the 1"=3" range comes in handy and you could use a small piece somewhere along the line.

 

Approach Notes:

Walking shoes will get you to this one after the snow is gone. We encountered a few short bits of snow and the mosquitos were amazingly reasonable for a mid-season climb at Washington Pass!

[Alpinfox]

 

Awesome!

 

Thanks Matt. I was disappointed I couldn't tag along on this trip. Got any more good pictures?

[goatboy]

I was up on North Early Winter Spire the previous day and am sorry not to have gotten to see Fred. Will post TR for that trip soon.

 

Thanks for the story, MattP.

[selkirk]

A buddy and I were lucky enough to be topping out the East Buttress at the same time as Matt, Fred and company and were pleasantly surprised to have such excellent company on the summit!

 

twas a great day to be out