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Posted

Little Si has some great 11's. Aborigine and Psycho-wussy (both 11b) are the most popular. But I would recommend Voodoo Guru (11c) really long with no hard moves stemming up a dihedral or Megatherion (11b) easy climbing to a tricky crux on cool rock.

 

dom

Posted

Gold Rush (11b) in the woods area is an excellent climb. Disincarnate (11a) at WWI is cool. I'm not a fan of Aborigine, but everyone else is.

Posted

Oh yea I forgot about Dreaming of a Life of Ease Pitch 2 (11c) just did this for the first time on friday. Its really cool exposed climbing, and not hard at all for 11c, it'd probably get 11a if it were straight off the deck.

Posted
Rad, what don't you like about Aborigine?

 

1 - It has kicked my arse twice, perhaps because it has well-spaced large holds in the middle that entice me to reach and crank rather than climb smoothly. Then I get flamed out before the upper crux.

 

2 - It has a painful two finger pocket crux that you want to grab with your left hand, but the bolt is left of that, and then the next move is a long one up and right. I probably just need a better sequence there.

 

3 - The name is culturally insensitive.

 

4 - It has kicked my arse twice and probably will again!

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