rob Posted July 4, 2009 Posted July 4, 2009 (edited) Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: Did east ridge with Mike Bell. There's plenty of beta out there, so I'll just add that the approach is mostly snow free, except for the basin under Ingalls. The climb is extremely soft for the grade. And, contrary to reports from summitpost, you can rap the south ridge with a 50m rope. Gear Notes: tennis shoes. Bring a *small* rack and long slings. We brought too much. I don't think we used anything over 2''. We did use a lot of stoppers. Edited July 4, 2009 by rob Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 4, 2009 Posted July 4, 2009 Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: Did east ridge with Mike Bell. There's plenty of beta out there, so I'll just add that the approach is mostly snow free, except for the basin under Ingalls. The climb is extremely soft for the grade. And, contrary to reports from summitpost, you can rap the south ridge with a 50m rope. Gear Notes: tennis shoes. Bring a *small* rack and long slings. I don't think we used anything over 2''. We did use a lot of stoppers. How did you protect the crux move? We needed a #4 Camalot for that. Other than the crux, I agree, the whole route is more like exposed scrambling. Quote
rob Posted July 4, 2009 Author Posted July 4, 2009 (edited) Mike found a solid stopper placement (#10 I think?) nearby. Edited July 4, 2009 by rob Quote
rob Posted July 4, 2009 Author Posted July 4, 2009 Actually, we had a bomber hex (prob about 2'') in a bit below it, as well, to secure the belay. We didn't bring a number 4. We had a 3 but I don't think we used it anywhere, and if we did it was just to stick it somewhere. Quote
rock-ice Posted July 8, 2009 Posted July 8, 2009 Thanks for the approach beta, those of us with short weekends appreciate the heads up. Quote
olymand Posted July 10, 2009 Posted July 10, 2009 fwiw, following on that route is pretty sketchy affair, the down climbs have the disadvantage of lots of slack and lots of ledges.don't like that route much. btw, does anyone know if there is a reasonable walk-off/scramble on ingalls? i've yet to find one, but thought maybe on the northwest side? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 10, 2009 Posted July 10, 2009 fwiw, following on that route is pretty sketchy affair, the down climbs have the disadvantage of lots of slack I didn't find this to be the case... Quote
pms Posted July 10, 2009 Posted July 10, 2009 I have been down the west side a couple times, ledges and scree with a very short rappel or two (probably not mandatory). Quote
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