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Posted (edited)

Trip: Ingalls - East Ridge

 

Date: 5/29/2009

 

Trip Report:

Four of us, including CC's KaskadskyjKozak, tagged the East Ridge today.

 

We got a late start, leaving the cars at 8:30. That delay was soon compounded by playing Marco Polo in the trees, as the trail disappeared under snow. The snow is continuous above the tree line, and we found it helpful to have snowshoes.

 

Given the amount of snow, we cached our snowshoes at the base of the access gully and kicked steps up. Soon we were on the rock, scrambling towards the ridge. We roped up at the giant chock stone near the top of the ridge. It looked like we were the first party up there in a while, and we had a couple of close calls with swept from the route by the rope above the chock stone. The that location was also the only place we encountered serpentinite on the entire climb.

 

The route was pretty clean aside from those first few rocks. Downclimbing into the notches had us wallowing in deep, soft snow, but there isn't too much of that -- a little on pitch 2 and some more on pitch 4. The rest of the route is dry.

 

The crux took a #4 C4, which KK had fortunately brought along.

 

Rapped down the south side, retrieved our cached gear and snowshoed out. Got grub at the Cottage Inn in Cle Elum.

 

Gear Notes:

Small cams. #4 C4 for the crux, though there looked to be a small crack that should take a green alien? yellow tcu? if you want to leave the boat anchor behind. Didn't lead that move so I didn't have the gear to verify...

 

Approach Notes:

Floatation helpful. No crampons. We had ice axes but could have done without.

Edited by mkporwit
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Posted
No pics by me since I didn't bring a camera. The other three had cameras a d I will post pics when I get them.

 

I'll post some pics Sunday night.

 

For those interested in heading that way, the parking lot is melted out, but the hike up to Ingalls is at least 90% snow-covered. Lake Ingalls is frozen over, the ridge above and behind Ingalls Lake appears to be all under snow, as is the gully for the W Ridge of Stuart up to at least Long John Tower. The route between LJT and W ridge notch appears to be mostly snow. The summit block appears to be dry.

 

Mkporwit failed to mention that the heat on the snow was absolutely oppressive and life sucking. Bring sunscreen and drink tons of water and still be prepared to be cooked like a Thanksgiving Turkey. There are some exposed rocks with running water near the pass and in Headlight Basin.

 

Thanks to all for a fun outing!

 

 

 

Posted
No pics by me since I didn't bring a camera. The other three had cameras a d I will post pics when I get them.

 

The approach:

Ingalls_-_May_2009003.JPG

 

The objective:

Ingalls_-_May_2009007.JPG

 

Looking back - team mates a bit behind:

Ingalls_-_May_2009012.JPG

 

Looking up at pitch 3:

Ingalls_-_May_2009016.JPG

 

A party of folks we knew:

Ingalls_-_May_2009019.JPG

 

Stuart, baby!

Ingalls_-_May_2009020.JPG

 

The end of the final pitch:

Ingalls_-_May_2009023.JPG

 

Ah, rappelling:

Ingalls_-_May_2009035.JPG

Posted

Nice pictures. I climbed the east ridge several years ago. Some good pitches, some bad. The second to last pitch was terrible.

 

 

KKK....nice....I did not know you climbed.

Posted
Nice pictures. Marcin, no use of the new tools? I hope they work out well for you. Cheers!

 

I got them for Adams Glacier, which is supposed to be happening this coming weekend assuming the road melts out far enough.

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